SDA Knowledge Base - User contributions [en]

Ganbare Natsuki-san

2009-12-11T04:38:28Z

Enhasa:

[[Category:PC]]
[[Category:Games]]
Official links: [http://maglog.jp/alpha-secret-base/Article1095.html 2006 original version]
[http://maglog.jp/alpha-secret-base/Article243291.html 2008 portable version] (with the engine of later games)

We use the [http://www.geocities.jp/dij4121/alpha/data/gnp_104.zip 1.04] portable version. It is incompatible with 1.11 original version.

{|border="0"
!Stage
!Time
!Runner
|-
|1-01
|2"49
|Baron Dante
|-
|1-02
|5"05
|Baron Dante
|-
|1-03
|5"01
|feasel
|-
|1-04
|4"34
|Enhasa
|-
|1-05
|6"19
|Baron Dante
|-
|1-06
|5"13
|Baron Dante
|-
|1-07
|8"33
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-08
|4"52
|ExplodingCabbage
|-
|1-09
|4"06
|ExplodingCabbage
|-
|1-10
|5"03
|feasel
|-
|2-11
|9"56
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-12
|7"25
|Baron Dante
|-
|2-13
|4"45
|feasel
|-
|2-14
|4"32
|feasel
|-
|2-15
|4"59
|ExplodingCabbage
|-
|2-16
|18"31
|ExplodingCabbage
|-
|2-17
|3"07
|Enhasa
|-
|2-18
|3"28
|Enhasa
|-
|2-19
|4"58
|ExplodingCabbage
|-
|2-20
|5"09
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-21
|8"42
|Baron Dante
|-
|3-22
|5"55
|spacoina
|-
|3-23
|11"57
|feasel
|-
|3-24
|8"53
|feasel
|-
|3-25
|18"05
|Pjoxt
|-
|3-26
|13"33
|Baron Dante
|-
|3-27
|12"31
|Enhasa
|-
|3-28
|11"15
|Baron Dante
|-
|3-29
|14"02
|Baron Dante
|-
|3-30
|6"55
|Baron Dante
|-
|4-31
|7"53
|ZenicReverie
|-
|4-32
|6"16
|Baron Dante
|-
|4-33
|4"21
|feasel
|-
|4-34
|9"55
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|4-35
|3"20
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-36
|8"27
|Baron Dante
|-
|4-37
|9"21
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|4-38
|14"06
|feasel
|-
|4-39
|4"52
|Baron Dante
|-
|4-40
|7"28
|Baron Dante
|-
|5-41
|11"58
|Baron Dante
|-
|5-42
|20"07
|Baron Dante
|-
|5-43
|10"18
|Baron Dante
|-
|5-44
|10"24
|Baron Dante
|-
|5-45
|12"25
|Baron Dante
|-
|5-46
|20"33
|feasel
|-
|5-47
|13"25
|spacoina
|-
|5-48
|8"37
|Baron Dante
|-
|5-49
|18"20
|Baron Dante
|-
|5-50
|19"48
|spacoina
|-
|Total
|7'32"12
|}

Ganbare Natsuki-san

2009-12-06T23:35:34Z

Enhasa:

[[Category:PC]]
[[Category:Games]]
Official links: [http://maglog.jp/alpha-secret-base/Article1095.html 2006 original version]
[http://maglog.jp/alpha-secret-base/Article243291.html 2008 portable version] (with the engine of later games)

We use the [http://www.geocities.jp/dij4121/alpha/data/gnp_104.zip 1.04] portable version. It is incompatible with 1.11 original version.

{|border="0"
!Stage
!Time
!Runner
|-
|1-01
|2"53
|Baron Dante
|-
|1-02
|5"11
|Enhasa
|-
|1-03
|5"16
|Baron Dante
|-
|1-04
|4"34
|Enhasa
|-
|1-05
|7"09
|Enhasa
|-
|1-06
|5"13
|Baron Dante
|-
|1-07
|8"33
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-08
|4"52
|ExplodingCabbage
|-
|1-09
|4"09
|ExplodingCabbage
|-
|1-10
|5"10
|Baron Dante
|-
|2-11
|9"56
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-12
|7"25
|Baron Dante
|-
|2-13
|5"15
|ExplodingCabbage
|-
|2-14
|4"33
|BaronDante
|-
|2-15
|5"21
|Enhasa
|-
|2-16
|18"31
|ExplodingCabbage
|-
|2-17
|3"12
|Enhasa
|-
|2-18
|3"33
|ExplodingCabbage
|-
|2-19
|5"10
|Baron Dante
|-
|2-20
|5"09
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-21
|8"42
|Baron Dante
|-
|3-22
|6"21
|ExplodingCabbage
|-
|3-23
|12"03
|ExplodingCabbage
|-
|3-24
|8"57
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-25
|18"05
|Pjoxt
|-
|3-26
|14"24
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|3-27
|14"11
|Baron Dante
|-
|3-28
|12"21
|Baron Dante
|-
|3-29
|14"18
|Pjoxt
|-
|3-30
|7"07
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|4-31
|7"53
|ZenicReverie
|-
|4-32
|6"57
|Enhasa
|-
|4-33
|4"32
|spacoina
|-
|4-34
|9"55
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|4-35
|3"20
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-36
|8"52
|Baron Dante
|-
|4-37
|9"39
|spacoina
|-
|4-38
|14"08
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|4-39
|4"59
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|4-40
|7"34
|mike89
|-
|5-41
|11"59
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|5-42
|20"28
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|5-43
|10"37
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|5-44
|10"50
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|5-45
|13"04
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|5-46
|21"32
|spacoina
|-
|5-47
|13"25
|spacoina
|-
|5-48
|9"03
|spacoina
|-
|5-49
|20"16
|spacoina
|-
|5-50
|22"47
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|Total
|7'49"24
|}

Ganbare Natsuki-san

2009-12-06T09:09:19Z

Enhasa:

[[Category:PC]]
[[Category:Games]]
Official links: [http://maglog.jp/alpha-secret-base/Article1095.html 2006 original version]
[http://maglog.jp/alpha-secret-base/Article243291.html 2008 portable version] (with the engine of later games)

We use the [http://www.geocities.jp/dij4121/alpha/data/gnp_104.zip 1.04] portable version. It is incompatible with 1.11 original version.

{|border="0"
!Stage
!Time
!Runner
|-
|1-01
|2"53
|Baron Dante
|-
|1-02
|5"14
|Enhasa
|-
|1-03
|5"16
|Baron Dante
|-
|1-04
|4"34
|Enhasa
|-
|1-05
|7"25
|Baron Dante
|-
|1-06
|5"13
|Baron Dante
|-
|1-07
|8"33
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-08
|4"52
|ExplodingCabbage
|-
|1-09
|4"09
|ExplodingCabbage
|-
|1-10
|5"10
|Baron Dante
|-
|2-11
|9"56
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-12
|7"25
|Baron Dante
|-
|2-13
|5"15
|ExplodingCabbage
|-
|2-14
|4"33
|BaronDante
|-
|2-15
|5"38
|Baron Dante
|-
|2-16
|18"31
|ExplodingCabbage
|-
|2-17
|3"19
|ExplodingCabbage
|-
|2-18
|3"33
|ExplodingCabbage
|-
|2-19
|5"10
|Baron Dante
|-
|2-20
|5"09
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-21
|8"42
|Baron Dante
|-
|3-22
|6"21
|ExplodingCabbage
|-
|3-23
|12"03
|ExplodingCabbage
|-
|3-24
|8"57
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-25
|18"26
|Pjoxt
|-
|3-26
|14"24
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|3-27
|14"11
|Baron Dante
|-
|3-28
|12"21
|Baron Dante
|-
|3-29
|14"18
|Pjoxt
|-
|3-30
|7"07
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|4-31
|7"53
|ZenicReverie
|-
|4-32
|6"57
|Enhasa
|-
|4-33
|4"32
|spacoina
|-
|4-34
|9"55
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|4-35
|3"20
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-36
|8"52
|Baron Dante
|-
|4-37
|9"39
|spacoina
|-
|4-38
|14"08
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|4-39
|4"59
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|4-40
|7"34
|mike89
|-
|5-41
|11"59
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|5-42
|20"28
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|5-43
|10"37
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|5-44
|10"50
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|5-45
|13"04
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|5-46
|21"32
|spacoina
|-
|5-47
|13"25
|spacoina
|-
|5-48
|9"03
|spacoina
|-
|5-49
|20"58
|spacoina
|-
|5-50
|22"47
|ZaibirQuild
|-
|Total
|7'51"10
|}

Ganbare Natsuki-san

2009-11-25T07:41:39Z

Enhasa: templating

Green Island

2009-11-25T07:32:02Z

Enhasa: added links

[[Category:PC]]
[[Category:Games]]
Official link: [http://maglog.jp/alpha-secret-base/Article717753.html Green Island]

We use the [http://www.geocities.jp/dij4121/alpha/data/bubble_100.zip 1.00] version.

{|border="0"
!Stage
!Time
!Runner
|-
|1-01
|2:03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-02
|3:42
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-03
|5:22
|TheVoid
|-
|1-04
|3:29
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-05
|2:56
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-06
|3:46
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-07
|5:38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-08
|7:39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-09
|4:25
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-10
|15:56
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-11
|4:12
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-12
|4:35
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-13
|8:27
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-14
|9:48
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-15
|4:28
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-16
|11:44
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-17
|11:38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-18
|5:15
|TheVoid
|-
|2-19
|4:29
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-20
|7:45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-21
|6:37
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-22
|7:37
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-23
|7:38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-24
|6:28
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-25
|6:07
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-26
|6:28
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-27
|4:40
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-28
|7:31
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-29
|9:15
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-30
|12:46
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-31
|13:52
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-32
|7:30
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-33
|5:18
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-34
|8:15
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-35
|8:36
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-36
|5:58
|TheVoid
|-
|4-37
|7:40
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-38
|6:59
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-39
|12:09
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-40
|8:47
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-41
|15:30
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-42
|19:56
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-43
|8:17
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-44
|6:28
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-45
|5:42
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-46
|7:57
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-47
|8:23
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-48
|11:39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-49
|9:02
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-50
|5:27
|LLCoolDave
|-
|Total
|6:24:45
|}

Kaiten Patissier

2009-11-25T07:29:43Z

Enhasa: version updates

[[Category:PC]]
[[Category:Games]]
Official links: [http://maglog.jp/alpha-secret-base/Article313069.html Kaiten Patissier]
[http://maglog.jp/alpha-secret-base/Article317768.html Ura Kaiten Patissier]
[http://maglog.jp/alpha-secret-base/Article331978.html Championship Kaiten Patissier]

The versions we use are [http://www.geocities.jp/dij4121/alpha/data/rg_103.zip 1.03] for Kaiten Patissier (compatible with [http://dex.thps3.net/uploaded_files/1256417227/rg_100.zip 1.00], not with 1.05), [http://www.geocities.jp/dij4121/alpha/data/rg_ura_103.zip 1.03] for Ura Kaiten Patissier, and [http://www.geocities.jp/dij4121/alpha/data/rg_cs_101.zip 1.01] for Championship Kaiten Patissier. Ura and Championship are compatible for all versions.

{|border="0"
!Stage
!Time
!Runner
|-
|1-01
|5.12
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-02
|5.37
|Enhasa
|-
|1-03
|5.19
|Enhasa
|-
|1-04
|5.48
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-05
|11.52
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-06
|9.59
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-07
|12.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-08
|8.46
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-09
|7.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-10
|5.29
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-11
|3.30
|Enhasa
|-
|2-12
|5.57
|Enhasa
|-
|2-13
|7.39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-14
|1.50
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-15
|3.40
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-16
|5.20
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-17
|4.48
|Nitrodon
|-
|2-18
|7.59
|Enhasa
|-
|2-19
|4.58
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-20
|14.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-21
|3.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-22
|3.12
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-23
|5.06
|Enhasa
|-
|3-24
|3.27
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-25
|7.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-26
|6.02
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-27
|3.40
|Enhasa
|-
|3-28
|10.47
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-29
|20.19
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-30
|6.50
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-31
|24.28
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-32
|5.56
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-33
|5.54
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-34
|9.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-35
|12.03
|Enhasa
|-
|4-36
|16.04
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-37
|4.47
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-38
|12.39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-39
|6.24
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-40
|12.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-41
|7.33
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-42
|10.08
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-43
|8.52
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-44
|15.19
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-45
|7.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-46
|18.22
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-47
|5.40
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-48
|8.44
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-49
|7.55
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-50
|4.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|Total
|6:53.19
|}

Kaiten Patissier

2009-10-24T21:02:32Z

Enhasa:

[[Category:PC]]
[[Category:Games]]
Official links: [http://maglog.jp/alpha-secret-base/Article313069.html Kaiten Patissier]
[http://maglog.jp/alpha-secret-base/Article317768.html Ura Kaiten Patissier]
[http://maglog.jp/alpha-secret-base/Article331978.html Championship Kaiten Patissier]

We use the [http://dex.thps3.net/uploaded_files/1256417227/rg_100.zip 1.00 version] of Kaiten Patissier for speedrunning though.

{|border="0"
!Stage
!Time
!Runner
|-
|1-01
|5.12
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-02
|5.37
|Enhasa
|-
|1-03
|5.19
|Enhasa
|-
|1-04
|5.48
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-05
|11.52
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-06
|9.59
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-07
|12.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-08
|8.46
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-09
|7.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-10
|5.29
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-11
|3.30
|Enhasa
|-
|2-12
|5.57
|Enhasa
|-
|2-13
|7.39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-14
|1.50
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-15
|3.40
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-16
|5.20
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-17
|4.48
|Nitrodon
|-
|2-18
|7.59
|Enhasa
|-
|2-19
|4.58
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-20
|14.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-21
|3.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-22
|3.12
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-23
|5.06
|Enhasa
|-
|3-24
|3.27
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-25
|7.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-26
|6.02
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-27
|3.40
|Enhasa
|-
|3-28
|10.47
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-29
|20.19
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-30
|6.50
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-31
|24.28
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-32
|5.56
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-33
|5.54
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-34
|9.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-35
|12.03
|Enhasa
|-
|4-36
|16.04
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-37
|4.47
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-38
|12.39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-39
|6.24
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-40
|12.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-41
|7.33
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-42
|10.08
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-43
|8.52
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-44
|15.19
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-45
|7.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-46
|18.22
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-47
|5.40
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-48
|8.44
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-49
|7.55
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-50
|4.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|Total
|6:53.19
|}

Kaiten Patissier

2009-10-24T20:20:10Z

Enhasa: added links to the games so I don't have to keep finding them

[[Category:PC]]
[[Category:Games]]
[http://maglog.jp/alpha-secret-base/Article313069.html Kaiten Patissier]
[http://maglog.jp/alpha-secret-base/Article317768.html Ura Kaiten Patissier]
[http://maglog.jp/alpha-secret-base/Article331978.html Championship Kaiten Patissier]

{|border="0"
!Stage
!Time
!Runner
|-
|1-01
|5.12
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-02
|5.37
|Enhasa
|-
|1-03
|5.19
|Enhasa
|-
|1-04
|5.48
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-05
|11.52
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-06
|9.59
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-07
|12.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-08
|8.46
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-09
|7.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-10
|5.29
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-11
|3.30
|Enhasa
|-
|2-12
|5.57
|Enhasa
|-
|2-13
|7.39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-14
|1.50
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-15
|3.40
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-16
|5.20
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-17
|4.48
|Nitrodon
|-
|2-18
|7.59
|Enhasa
|-
|2-19
|4.58
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-20
|14.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-21
|3.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-22
|3.12
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-23
|5.06
|Enhasa
|-
|3-24
|3.27
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-25
|7.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-26
|6.02
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-27
|3.40
|Enhasa
|-
|3-28
|10.47
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-29
|20.19
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-30
|6.50
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-31
|24.28
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-32
|5.56
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-33
|5.54
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-34
|9.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-35
|12.03
|Enhasa
|-
|4-36
|16.04
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-37
|4.47
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-38
|12.39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-39
|6.24
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-40
|12.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-41
|7.33
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-42
|10.08
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-43
|8.52
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-44
|15.19
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-45
|7.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-46
|18.22
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-47
|5.40
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-48
|8.44
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-49
|7.55
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-50
|4.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|Total
|6:53.19
|}

Kaiten Patissier

2009-10-24T03:48:29Z

Enhasa:

[[Category:PC]]
[[Category:Games]]

{|border="0"
!Stage
!Time
!Runner
|-
|1-01
|5.12
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-02
|5.37
|Enhasa
|-
|1-03
|5.19
|Enhasa
|-
|1-04
|5.48
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-05
|11.52
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-06
|9.59
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-07
|12.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-08
|8.46
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-09
|7.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-10
|5.29
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-11
|3.30
|Enhasa
|-
|2-12
|5.57
|Enhasa
|-
|2-13
|7.39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-14
|1.50
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-15
|3.40
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-16
|5.20
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-17
|4.48
|Nitrodon
|-
|2-18
|7.59
|Enhasa
|-
|2-19
|4.58
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-20
|14.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-21
|3.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-22
|3.12
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-23
|5.06
|Enhasa
|-
|3-24
|3.27
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-25
|7.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-26
|6.02
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-27
|3.40
|Enhasa
|-
|3-28
|10.47
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-29
|20.19
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-30
|6.50
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-31
|24.28
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-32
|5.56
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-33
|5.54
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-34
|9.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-35
|12.03
|Enhasa
|-
|4-36
|16.04
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-37
|4.47
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-38
|12.39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-39
|6.24
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-40
|12.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-41
|7.33
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-42
|10.08
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-43
|8.52
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-44
|15.19
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-45
|7.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-46
|18.22
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-47
|5.40
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-48
|8.44
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-49
|7.55
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-50
|4.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|Total
|6:53.19
|}

Kaiten Patissier

2009-10-24T03:09:31Z

Enhasa:

[[Category:PC]]
[[Category:Games]]

{|border="0"
!Stage
!Time
!Runner
|-
|1-01
|5.12
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-02
|5.37
|Enhasa
|-
|1-03
|5.19
|Enhasa
|-
|1-04
|5.48
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-05
|11.52
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-06
|9.59
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-07
|12.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-08
|8.46
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-09
|7.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-10
|5.29
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-11
|3.30
|Enhasa
|-
|2-12
|5.57
|Enhasa
|-
|2-13
|7.39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-14
|1.50
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-15
|3.40
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-16
|5.20
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-17
|4.48
|Nitrodon
|-
|2-18
|7.59
|Enhasa
|-
|2-19
|4.58
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-20
|14.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-21
|3.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-22
|3.12
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-23
|5.06
|Enhasa
|-
|3-24
|3.27
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-25
|7.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-26
|6.02
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-27
|3.40
|Enhasa
|-
|3-28
|10.47
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-29
|20.19
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-30
|6.50
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-31
|24.28
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-32
|5.56
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-33
|5.54
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-34
|9.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-35
|12.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-36
|16.04
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-37
|4.47
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-38
|12.39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-39
|6.24
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-40
|12.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-41
|7.33
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-42
|10.08
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-43
|8.52
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-44
|15.19
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-45
|7.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-46
|18.22
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-47
|5.40
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-48
|8.44
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-49
|7.55
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-50
|4.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|Total
|6:53.54
|}

Kaiten Patissier

2009-10-24T03:08:17Z

Enhasa: poor TheVoid

[[Category:PC]]
[[Category:Games]]

{|border="0"
!Stage
!Time
!Runner
|-
|1-01
|5.12
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-02
|5.37
|Enhasa
|-
|1-03
|5.19
|Enhasa
|-
|1-04
|5.48
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-05
|11.52
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-06
|9.59
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-07
|12.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-08
|8.46
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-09
|7.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-10
|5.29
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-11
|3.30
|Enhasa
|-
|2-12
|5.57
|Enhasa
|-
|2-13
|7.39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-14
|1.50
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-15
|3.40
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-16
|5.20
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-17
|4.48
|Nitrodon
|-
|2-18
|7.59
|Enhasa
|-
|2-19
|4.58
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-20
|14.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-21
|3.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-22
|3.12
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-23
|5.06
|Enhasa
|-
|3-24
|3.27
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-25
|7.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-26
|6.02
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-27
|3.40
|Enhasa
|-
|3-28
|10.47
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-29
|20.19
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-30
|6.50
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-31
|24.28
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-32
|5.56
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-33
|5.54
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-34
|9.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-35
|12.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-36
|16.04
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-37
|4.47
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-38
|12.39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-39
|6.24
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-40
|12.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-41
|7.33
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-42
|10.08
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-43
|8.52
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-44
|15.19
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-45
|7.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-46
|18.22
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-47
|5.40
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-48
|8.44
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-49
|7.55
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-50
|4.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|Total
|6:53.55
|}

DScaler

2009-10-05T03:31:42Z

Enhasa: at home now so couple minor clarifications

==Overview==

DScaler is an amazing piece of software. There are still many people who will refuse to buy a capture card that does not support it, as most cards come with terrible drivers and software. DScaler talks directly to the hardware without using drivers and displays the video using hardware overlay. Not only do you not have to put up with poorly written drivers and programs, this method is MUCH, MUCH faster. You can enjoy virtually lagless play while capturing and record good video that would otherwise be an unwatchable mess in other software like VirtualDub. If you want, you can also tweak all sorts of previously unavailable internal card settings to achieve the best picture or performance possible. DScaler will commonly be the difference between thinking your capture card is great, or a piece of crap.

A brief note about capture cards. You can get very good quality from a cheap card, even in the $10-$15 range. Even low-end cards can support s-video input and line-in for stereo audio, so make sure to check before you buy some card that only supports composite or mono. Audio input is nice and often included, but not necessary; without it, you can just send the audio from your console directly to your sound card and use it to record the audio. If your capture card or sound card doesn't take in RCA inputs, you can get a very cheap [http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Cable/dp/B000V06UEO/ RCA to headphone jack cable], or your capture card may already come with one for the line-in.

 
==Caveats==

The biggest caveat is support. Since DScaler talks directly to the capture card, support for each chipset needs to be individually added. Otherwise, you will have to resort to the slow, generic driver-based DShow mode that other programs use. Fortunately, most cards use the same chips. Generally, if you have a low or mid-end PCI card, which will almost always use either the bt8x8, cx2388x, or saa713x chipsets, it will be supported. USB cards and PVR cards with built-in hardware encoding are generally not supported, and they also tend to have a great deal of lag. If you are unsure if your card is supported, you can find the chipset on Google or just ask. You could also try running DScaler and see if it works without selecting DShow.

DScaler requires hardware overlay to minimize latency, and only one process may use this at a time. This means if you are already using hardware overlay in another program (maybe it's turned on in your media player as well), it will give an error upon loading. Close the other program and try again.

Since DScaler uses ring 0 for highest-level control to interact directly with the hardware, this means that if it crashes, it could take down your entire system and force you to reboot. I've never had it crash, but I guess this is still a consideration.

 
==Setup==

Go to the [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=7420 download page] and get whatever the newest release is. It should be stable even if it's not listed as a "stable" version. Run the installer. Upon running the program, it should bring up a dialog box asking you for your card. You can try the auto-detect if you don't know or if it's not listed. Many cards are similar so it can still work even if the name isn't the same. Then there should be a dialog box for performance settings. You should select all the highest quality settings: Above 1 GHz, Best picture quality, DScaler alone. If your card has a TV tuner and you care at all about watching TV, the next thing to do is scan for channels just like you would with a stand-alone TV: Channels/Setup. If your card came with a remote control, you can use software like [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=145751 EventGhost] to control DScaler.

At this point, you can play around in the menus for a bit to set some of the countless options how you like. The included help is very useful, or you can ask for help in fine-tuning settings. Pixel width should be set the same as or a multiple of the source: 640 for NTSC console output, 768 for PAL, 720 for TV or DVD material. Audio input should be either Tuner for TV or Stereo for console output; you should check pin 1 if it's there. Similarly, go to Settings/Audio Mixer setup and disable the hardware mute. Then go into Settings/Advanced Settings and click on the first row, for your card chipset. If the options are there, I find the best picture is achieved by turning on AGC (including crush), comb, full luma range, and leaving everything else unchecked.

If you really want to reduce lag, besides common-sense stuff like not opening 50 other programs or turning on every filter, there are a couple Advanced Settings to get the latency all the way down. Turn Aspect Ratio/Defer Setting Overlay off, Wait for Vertical Blank off, Field Timing/Maximum Shift to 0, Decoding/Hurry When Late on, Wait for Flip off, Threads to high, Overlay/Back Buffers to 1. Also turn off Capture VBI in Datacasting.

 
==Watching==

Use Video Input to switch between TV tuner, composite, s-video, etc. To change channels, hit page up/down to go up or down by one channel, or just type the number of the channel.

The two most important menus for picture quality and performance are Deinterlace and Filters. First, uncheck Automatic Detection and JudderTerminator. The next thing you will want to do is select the general deinterlacer you like the best. I recommend Greedy High Motion, but you can also try TomsMoComp or MoComp2. Click on Show UI and check Horizontal and Vertical Sharpness. I keep Auto Pull-Down (acts like Automatic Detection), In-Between Frames (acts like JudderTerminator), and Median Filter (acts like Noise Reduction, but adds a bit of lag) unchecked. Next you can see what filters you want to use. I personally have them all turned off, but these can be useful if they improve your picture: Temporal Comb, Adaptive Noise Reduction, Chroma. If you can't really tell a difference or know why you would want any of these, just leave them all off.

If your source is an old console (PS1, N64, Saturn, or older), you can try the Old Game deinterlacer; if you are playing via RF or composite, check the composite box in the Old Game settings. Otherwise (TV, DVD, newer console), stick to Greedy High Motion. If you are using RF or composite, you will also want to turn on the Temporal Comb filter to stop dot crawl and rainbowing.

 
==Recording==

To take a screenshot, just hit L. You can change the options in the settings, like format (lossy jpeg or lossless tiff that you will want to compress with [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=151404&package_id=167423 OptiPNG]), compression, location to save, periodic screenshots, preview mode, etc.

To record a quick clip for YouTube or personal use, here is the easiest and fastest way. Set pixel width to 320 for NTSC or 384 for PAL. Go to Actions/Recording/Options and select a lossy codec like [http://www.xvid.org/Downloads.43.0.html Xvid] or [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=213809&package_id=257567 x264] under Compression Options. Select No Limit, averaged 1/2-height, and YUY2. Now, whenever you want to record, hit Shift-R to record and Shift-S to stop. If your video is jerky, you should try recording with a [[Lossless Codecs Comparison|lossless codec]] and converting to a lossy format after editing with something like [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=57023 AviSynth], [http://virtualdub.sourceforge.net/ VirtualDub], [[MeGUI]], or [[Batch Encoding]].

If you're recording for SDA, you will obviously want a high quality end video. This means that you will want to capture the picture as purely as possible, so that any touches can be made later. So turn off all filters and select Simple Weave (essentially a dummy deinterlacer). Make sure pixel width is 640 for NTSC or 768 for PAL. DScaler produces video at your monitor refresh rate to maintain smoothness, so to record at 29.97 fps for NTSC, set your refresh rate to 59.94. You can use your video card drivers, but they often round, so in that case use [http://entechtaiwan.com/util/ps.shtm PowerStrip] to set it exactly, then select View/Switch Resolution in Full Screen/Use PowerStrip. Go to Actions/Recording/Options and select a [[Lossless Codecs Comparison|lossless codec]] under Compression Options. Select No Limit, Full Height, and YUY2. Whenever you are ready to record, hit Shift-R to record and Shift-S to stop. You can take the resulting video and encode it yourself to SDA guidelines, using one of the methods above, or you can make your job simpler by using [[Anri-chan]].

Kaiten Patissier

2009-10-05T01:05:39Z

Enhasa: meh

[[Category:PC]]
[[Category:Games]]

{|border="0"
!Stage
!Time
!Runner
|-
|1-01
|5.12
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-02
|5.37
|Enhasa
|-
|1-03
|5.19
|Enhasa
|-
|1-04
|5.48
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-05
|11.52
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-06
|9.59
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-07
|12.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-08
|8.46
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-09
|7.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-10
|5.29
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-11
|3.30
|Enhasa
|-
|2-12
|5.57
|Enhasa
|-
|2-13
|7.39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-14
|1.50
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-15
|3.40
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-16
|5.20
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-17
|4.48
|Nitrodon
|-
|2-18
|7.59
|Enhasa
|-
|2-19
|4.58
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-20
|14.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-21
|3.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-22
|3.12
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-23
|5.07
|TheVoid
|-
|3-24
|3.27
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-25
|7.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-26
|6.02
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-27
|3.40
|Enhasa
|-
|3-28
|10.47
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-29
|20.19
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-30
|6.50
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-31
|24.28
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-32
|5.56
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-33
|5.54
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-34
|9.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-35
|12.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-36
|16.04
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-37
|4.47
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-38
|12.39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-39
|6.24
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-40
|12.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-41
|7.33
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-42
|10.08
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-43
|8.52
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-44
|15.19
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-45
|7.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-46
|18.22
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-47
|5.40
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-48
|8.44
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-49
|7.55
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-50
|4.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|Total
|6:53.55
|}

DScaler

2009-10-02T20:20:18Z

Enhasa: small changes

==Overview==

DScaler is an amazing piece of software. There are still many people who will refuse to buy a capture card that does not support it, as most cards come with terrible drivers and software. DScaler talks directly to the hardware without using drivers and displays the video using hardware overlay. Not only do you not have to put up with poorly written drivers and programs, this method is MUCH, MUCH faster. You can enjoy virtually lagless play while capturing and record good video that would otherwise be an unwatchable mess in other software like VirtualDub. If you want, you can also tweak all sorts of previously unavailable internal card settings to achieve the best picture or performance possible. DScaler will commonly be the difference between thinking your capture card is great, or a piece of crap.

A brief note about capture cards. You can get very good quality from a cheap card, even in the $10-$15 range. Even low-end cards can support s-video input and line-in for stereo audio, so make sure to check before you buy some card that only supports composite or mono. Audio input is nice and often included, but not necessary; without it, you can just send the audio from your console directly to your sound card and use it to record the audio. If your capture card or sound card doesn't take in RCA inputs, you can get a very cheap [http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Cable/dp/B000V06UEO/ RCA to headphone jack cable], or your capture card may already come with one for the line-in.

 
==Caveats==

The biggest caveat is support. Since DScaler talks directly to the capture card, support for each chipset needs to be individually added. Otherwise, you will have to resort to the slow, generic driver-based DShow mode that other programs use. Fortunately, most cards use the same chips. Generally, if you have a low or mid-end PCI card, which will almost always use either the bt8x8, cx2388x, or saa713x chipsets, it will be supported. USB cards and PVR cards with built-in hardware encoding are generally not supported, and they also tend to have a great deal of lag. If you are unsure if your card is supported, you can find the chipset on Google or just ask. You could also try running DScaler and see if it works without selecting DShow.

DScaler requires hardware overlay to minimize latency, and only one process may use this at a time. This means if you are already using hardware overlay in another program (maybe it's turned on in your media player as well), it will give an error upon loading. Close the other program and try again.

Since DScaler uses ring 0 for highest-level control to interact directly with the hardware, this means that if it crashes, it could take down your entire system and force you to reboot. I've never had it crash, but I guess this is still a consideration.

 
==Setup==

Go to the [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=7420 download page] and get whatever the newest release is. It should be stable even if it's not listed as a "stable" version. Run the installer. Upon running the program, it should bring up a dialog box asking you for your card. You can try the auto-detect if you don't know or if it's not listed. Many cards are similar so it can still work even if the name isn't the same. Then there should be a dialog box for performance settings. You should select all the highest quality settings: Above 1 GHz, Best picture quality, DScaler alone. If your card has a TV tuner and you care at all about watching TV, the next thing to do is scan for channels just like you would with a stand-alone TV: Channels/Setup. If your card came with a remote control, you can use software like [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=145751 EventGhost] to control DScaler.

At this point, you can play around in the menus for a bit to set some of the countless options how you like. The included help is very useful, or you can ask for help in fine-tuning settings. Pixel width should be set the same as or a multiple of the source: 640 for NTSC console output, 768 for PAL, 720 for TV or DVD material. Audio input should be either Tuner for TV or Stereo for console output; you should check pin 1 if it's there. Similarly, go to Settings/Audio Mixer setup and disable the hardware mute. Then go into Settings/Advanced Settings and click on the first row, for your card chipset. If the options are there, I find the best picture is achieved by turning on AGC (including crush), comb, full luma range, and leaving everything else unchecked.

If you really want to reduce lag, besides common-sense stuff like not opening 50 other programs or turning on every filter, there are a couple Advanced Settings to get the latency all the way down. Turn Aspect Ratio/Defer Setting Overlay off, Wait for Vertical Blank off, Field Timing/Maximum Shift to 0, Decoding/Hurry When Late on, Wait for Flip off, Threads to high, Overlay/Back Buffers to 1. Also turn off all the VBI stuff in Datacasting.

 
==Watching==

Use Video Input to switch between TV tuner, composite, s-video, etc. To change channels, hit page up/down to go up or down by one channel, or just type the number of the channel.

The two most important menus for picture quality and performance are Deinterlace and Filters. First, uncheck Automatic Detection and JudderTerminator. The next thing you will want to do is select the general deinterlacer you like the best. I recommend Greedy High Motion, but you can also try TomsMoComp or MoComp2. Click on Show UI and check Horizontal and Vertical Sharpness. I keep Auto Pull-Down (acts like Automatic Detection), In-Between Frames (acts like JudderTerminator), and Median Filter (acts like Noise Reduction, but adds a bit of lag) unchecked. Next you can see what filters you want to use. I personally have them all turned off, but these can be useful if they improve your picture: Temporal Comb, Adaptive Noise Reduction, Chroma. If you can't really tell a difference or know why you would want any of these, just leave them all off.

If your source is an old console (PS1, N64, Saturn, or older), you can try the Old Game deinterlacer; if you are playing via RF or composite, check the composite box in the Old Game settings. Otherwise (TV, DVD, newer console), stick to Greedy High Motion. If you are using RF or composite, you will also want to turn on the Temporal Comb filter to combat dot crawl and rainbowing.

 
==Recording==

To take a screenshot, just hit L. You can change the options in the settings, like format (lossy jpeg or lossless tiff that you will want to compress with [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=151404&package_id=167423 OptiPNG]), compression, location to save, periodic screenshots, preview mode, etc.

To record a quick clip for YouTube or personal use, here is the easiest and fastest way. Set pixel width to 320 for NTSC or 384 for PAL. Go to Actions/Recording/Options and select a lossy codec like [http://www.xvid.org/Downloads.43.0.html Xvid] or [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=213809&package_id=257567 x264] under Compression Options. Select No Limit, averaged 1/2-height, and YUY2. Now, whenever you want to record, hit Shift-R to record and Shift-S to stop. If your video is jerky, you should try recording with a [[Lossless Codecs Comparison|lossless codec]] and converting to a lossy format after editing with something like [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=57023 AviSynth], [http://virtualdub.sourceforge.net/ VirtualDub], [[MeGUI]], or [[Batch Encoding]].

If you're recording for SDA, you will obviously want a high quality end video. This means that you will want to capture the picture as purely as possible, so that any touches can be made later. So turn off all filters and select Simple Weave (essentially a dummy deinterlacer). Make sure pixel width is 640 for NTSC or 768 for PAL. DScaler produces video at your monitor refresh rate to maintain smoothness, so to record at 29.97 fps for NTSC, set your refresh rate to 59.94. You can use your video card drivers, but they often round, so in that case use [http://entechtaiwan.com/util/ps.shtm PowerStrip] to set it exactly. Go to Actions/Recording/Options and select a [[Lossless Codecs Comparison|lossless codec]] under Compression Options. Select No Limit, Full Height, and YUY2. Whenever you are ready to record, hit Shift-R to record and Shift-S to stop. You can take the resulting video and encode it yourself to SDA guidelines, using one of the methods above, or you can make your job simpler by using [[Anri-chan]].

Kaiten Patissier

2009-09-20T02:04:27Z

Enhasa:

[[Category:PC]]
[[Category:Games]]

{|border="0"
!Stage
!Time
!Runner
|-
|1-01
|5.12
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-02
|5.37
|Enhasa
|-
|1-03
|5.19
|Enhasa
|-
|1-04
|5.48
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-05
|11.57
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-06
|9.59
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-07
|12.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-08
|8.46
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-09
|7.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-10
|5.29
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-11
|3.30
|Enhasa
|-
|2-12
|5.57
|Enhasa
|-
|2-13
|7.39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-14
|1.50
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-15
|3.56
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-16
|5.21
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-17
|4.48
|Nitrodon
|-
|2-18
|8.04
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-19
|4.58
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-20
|14.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-21
|3.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-22
|3.12
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-23
|5.07
|TheVoid
|-
|3-24
|3.27
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-25
|7.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-26
|6.02
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-27
|3.40
|Enhasa
|-
|3-28
|10.47
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-29
|20.30
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-30
|6.50
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-31
|24.28
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-32
|5.56
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-33
|6.29
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-34
|9.53
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-35
|12.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-36
|16.04
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-37
|4.47
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-38
|12.39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-39
|6.24
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-40
|12.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-41
|7.53
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-42
|10.08
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-43
|8.52
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-44
|15.19
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-45
|7.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-46
|18.22
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-47
|5.40
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-48
|8.44
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-49
|7.55
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-50
|5.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|Total
|6:45.06
|}

Kaiten Patissier

2009-09-19T23:02:18Z

Enhasa:

[[Category:PC]]
[[Category:Games]]

{|border="0"
!Stage
!Time
!Runner
|-
|1-01
|5.12
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-02
|5.37
|Enhasa
|-
|1-03
|5.19
|Enhasa
|-
|1-04
|5.48
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-05
|11.57
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-06
|10.11
|Enhasa
|-
|1-07
|12.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-08
|8.46
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-09
|7.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-10
|5.29
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-11
|3.30
|Enhasa
|-
|2-12
|5.57
|Enhasa
|-
|2-13
|7.39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-14
|1.50
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-15
|3.56
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-16
|5.21
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-17
|4.48
|Nitrodon
|-
|2-18
|8.04
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-19
|4.58
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-20
|14.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-21
|3.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-22
|3.12
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-23
|5.07
|TheVoid
|-
|3-24
|3.27
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-25
|7.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-26
|6.02
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-27
|3.40
|Enhasa
|-
|3-28
|10.47
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-29
|20.30
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-30
|6.50
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-31
|24.28
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-32
|5.56
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-33
|6.29
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-34
|9.53
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-35
|12.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-36
|16.04
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-37
|4.47
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-38
|12.39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-39
|6.24
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-40
|12.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-41
|7.53
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-42
|10.08
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-43
|8.52
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-44
|15.19
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-45
|7.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-46
|18.22
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-47
|5.40
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-48
|8.44
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-49
|7.55
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-50
|5.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|Total
|6:45.48
|}

Green Island

2009-09-19T20:47:26Z

Enhasa: one runner per stage

[[Category:PC]]
[[Category:Games]]

{|border="0"
!Stage
!Time
!Runner
|-
|1-01
|2:03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-02
|3:42
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-03
|5:22
|TheVoid
|-
|1-04
|3:29
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-05
|2:56
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-06
|3:46
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-07
|5:38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-08
|7:39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-09
|4:25
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-10
|15:56
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-11
|4:12
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-12
|4:35
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-13
|8:27
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-14
|9:48
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-15
|4:28
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-16
|11:44
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-17
|11:38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-18
|5:15
|TheVoid
|-
|2-19
|4:29
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-20
|7:45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-21
|6:37
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-22
|7:37
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-23
|7:38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-24
|6:28
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-25
|6:07
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-26
|6:28
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-27
|4:40
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-28
|7:31
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-29
|9:15
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-30
|12:46
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-31
|13:52
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-32
|7:30
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-33
|5:18
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-34
|8:15
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-35
|8:36
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-36
|5:58
|TheVoid
|-
|4-37
|7:40
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-38
|6:59
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-39
|12:09
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-40
|8:47
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-41
|15:30
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-42
|19:56
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-43
|8:17
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-44
|6:28
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-45
|5:42
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-46
|7:57
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-47
|8:23
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-48
|11:39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-49
|9:02
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-50
|5:27
|LLCoolDave
|-
|Total
|6:24:45
|}

Kaiten Patissier

2009-09-19T20:45:37Z

Enhasa: Created page with 'Category:PC Category:Games {|border="0" !Stage !Time !Runner |- |1-01 |5.12 |LLCoolDave |- |1-02 |5.37 |Enhasa |- |1-03 |5.19 |Enhasa |- |1-04 |5.48 |LLCoolDave |- |1-05…'

[[Category:PC]]
[[Category:Games]]

{|border="0"
!Stage
!Time
!Runner
|-
|1-01
|5.12
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-02
|5.37
|Enhasa
|-
|1-03
|5.19
|Enhasa
|-
|1-04
|5.48
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-05
|11.57
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-06
|10.11
|Enhasa
|-
|1-07
|12.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-08
|8.46
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-09
|7.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|1-10
|5.59
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-11
|3.30
|Enhasa
|-
|2-12
|5.57
|Enhasa
|-
|2-13
|7.39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-14
|1.50
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-15
|3.56
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-16
|5.21
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-17
|4.48
|Nitrodon
|-
|2-18
|8.04
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-19
|4.58
|LLCoolDave
|-
|2-20
|14.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-21
|3.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-22
|3.12
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-23
|5.07
|TheVoid
|-
|3-24
|3.27
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-25
|7.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-26
|6.02
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-27
|3.40
|Enhasa
|-
|3-28
|10.47
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-29
|20.30
|LLCoolDave
|-
|3-30
|6.50
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-31
|24.28
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-32
|5.56
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-33
|6.29
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-34
|9.53
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-35
|12.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-36
|16.04
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-37
|4.47
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-38
|12.39
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-39
|6.24
|LLCoolDave
|-
|4-40
|12.03
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-41
|7.53
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-42
|10.08
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-43
|8.52
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-44
|15.19
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-45
|7.38
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-46
|18.22
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-47
|5.40
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-48
|8.44
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-49
|7.55
|LLCoolDave
|-
|5-50
|5.45
|LLCoolDave
|-
|Total
|6:45.48
|}

Bughunting

2009-08-31T03:42:20Z

Enhasa: maybe i should hit preview this time

No program is perfect. By extension, no game is bug-free. The techniques here will help you find bugs, if none are already known. Hopefully the bugs you find will be useful, and you will then add them to this wiki on the appropriate game page!

See also: [[Generic techniques]].

==All Games==
===Pausing===
In many cases, especially with older games, you can exploit quirks with how a game handles pausing. Most commonly they confuse timed events such as reloading or hitstun. You can use this trick with Mega Man 1 to repeatedly hit bosses with the Lightning weapon, by pausing each time it hits and waiting a short duration for the boss's hitstun to reset before un-pausing. Pausing could also reset the character's vertical velocity to zero, allowing you to make extra-long jumps.

===Hidden Worlds===
Where the world is made up of discrete rooms, there must be some mechanic whereby the game decides which room to place you in next, usually occurring when you reach a boundary. If this mechanic were confused, perhaps by another event happening at the same instant the boundary is triggered, then it may send you to the wrong place. Alternately, you might try facing the wrong direction when triggering a boundary. This can lead to completely un-navigable areas or empty copies of other rooms. The Pokemon series' 'Glitch Cities' can be entered by exiting the Safari Zone in an unintended fashion.
===Scrolling===
When games scroll in any direction, they must decide what to put on the screen next. As with the Hidden Worlds bugs, confusing this decision process can have strange results. By hitting Select at appropriate times during Metroid II, entire lines of wall can be skipped out when the engine scrolls them on screen. This allows you to enter glitchy areas and skip vast sections of the map. The 4th-generation Pokemon games have a [[Pokémon_Diamond/Pearl/Platinum#Glitches|tweaking trick]] with much the same effect.

==Action Games==
===Physics===
Let's say the game you are playing runs at 60Hz. In most modern-ish PC games you can change this as long as your monitor supports it. While this frequency only tells you how many frames the graphics engine outputs per second, it also tends to be how many 'game ticks' the engine runs per second. When combined with a little understanding about how games implement physics, it can blow the game wide open.

Almost all games with physics will go with some kind of simplified Newtonian method. What this means is that your character (and possibly other actors in the game world) will have at least position and velocity. Most of these engines boil down to running "NewPosition = OldPosition + Velocity" every game tick, which has some interesting consequences. If you are going so fast that on consecutive game ticks you are either side of a wall, the game may not register a collision. This is used with Half-Life to go through a barrier and with countless other games to occasionally ignore corners.

===Bunnyhopping===
How do you reach such ludicrous speeds in the first place? A common technique (at least in First-Person Shooters) is to jump repeatedly. This technique works because many engines calculate "If Player on Ground: NewVelocity = OldVelocity - Friction" every tick. The more time you spend off the ground, the less friction will be applied to you. However, in order to actually gain speed rather than maintain it, you will need to do something else. The 'something else' depends entirely on the game's engine. Quake runners continually move the mouse from side-to-side whilst using the strafe keys; Half-Life 2 mandates that you use alternate strafe keys as you land. Experiment.

Some games consciously implement bunnyhopping: Painkiller and Quake 3 let you just jumping while holding forward.

==RPGs==
===Integer Underflow===
Games which need to store values do so based on how large that value might need to become. A standard way of doing this on old games is by using one byte, which gives an unsigned range of 0..255, or a signed range of -128..127. Unless the game ensures that the value cannot go below the minimum, you can often cause the value to wrap around to its maximum. This can be very useful if the value in question is your character's Strength or Level. With Baldur's Gate you can use an [[Infinity_Engine#Inventory_Stack_Underflow|item-swapping trick]] to wrap an item's quantity value around to 65535, the two byte unsigned maximum. With Suikoden II you can use the Kindness Rune to add 255 Attack by making your Kindness value lower than 0.

===Memory Corruption===
Memory corruption can be used to completely break open a game. This volatile type of bug can have profound effects on the stability and state of the game. A well-known corruption bug occurs on Final Fantasy VI when Relm uses Sketch after Vanish, causing it to miss the target. The program will then attempt to read an area of memory that does not contain any enemy data, with potentially exploitable results.

Bughunting

2009-08-31T03:41:00Z

Enhasa: very minor wording

No program is perfect. By extension, no game is bug-free. The techniques here will help you find bugs, if none are already known. Hopefully the bugs you find will be useful, and you will then add them to this wiki on the appropriate game page!

See also: [[Generic techniques]].

==All Games==
===Pausing===
In many cases, especially with older games, you can exploit quirks with how a game handles pausing. Most commonly they confuse timed events such as reloading or hitstun. You can use this trick with Mega Man 1 to repeatedly hit bosses with the Lightning weapon, by pausing each time it hits and waiting a short duration for the boss's hitstun to reset before un-pausing. Pausing could also reset the character's vertical velocity to zero, allowing you to make extra-long jumps.

===Hidden Worlds===
Where the world is made up of discrete rooms, there must be some mechanic whereby the game decides which room to place you in next, usually occurring when you reach a boundary. If this mechanic were confused, perhaps by another event happening at the same instant the boundary is triggered, then it may send you to the wrong place. Alternately, you might try facing the wrong direction when triggering a boundary. This can lead to completely un-navigable areas or empty copies of other rooms. The Pokemon series' 'Glitch Cities' can be entered by exiting the Safari Zone in an unintended fashion.
===Scrolling===
When games scroll in any direction, they must decide what to put on the screen next. As with the Hidden Worlds bugs, confusing this decision process can have strange results. By hitting Select at appropriate times during Metroid II, entire lines of wall can be skipped out when the engine scrolls them on screen. This allows you to enter glitchy areas and skip vast sections of the map. The 4th-generation Pokemon games have a [[Pokémon_Diamond/Pearl/Platinum#Glitches|tweaking trick]] with much the same effect.

==Action Games==
===Physics===
Let's say the game you are playing runs at 60Hz. In most modern-ish PC games you can change this as long as your monitor supports it. While this frequency only tells you how many frames the graphics engine outputs per second, it also tends to be how many 'game ticks' the engine runs per second. When combined with a little understanding about how games implement physics, it can blow the game wide open.

Almost all games with physics will go with some kind of simplified Newtonian method. What this means is that your character (and possibly other actors in the game world) will have at least position and velocity. Most of these engines boil down to running "NewPosition = OldPosition + Velocity" every game tick, which has some interesting consequences. If you are going so fast that on consecutive game ticks you are either side of a wall, the game may not register a collision. This is used with Half-Life to go through a barrier and with countless other games to occasionally ignore corners.

===Bunnyhopping===
How do you reach such ludicrous speeds in the first place? A common technique (at least in First-Person Shooters) is to jump repeatedly. This technique works because many engines calculate "If Player on Ground: NewVelocity = OldVelocity - Friction" every tick. The more time you spend off the ground, the less friction will be applied to you. However, in order to actually gain speed rather than maintain it, you will need to do something else. The 'something else' depends entirely on the game's engine. Quake runners continually move the mouse from side-to-side whilst using the strafe keys; Half-Life 2 mandates that you use alternate strafe keys as you land. Experiment.

Some games consciously implement bunnyhopping: Painkiller and Quake 3 let you just jumping while holding forward.

==RPGs==
===Integer Underflow===
Games which need to store values do so based on how large that value might possibly need to become. A standard way of doing this on old games is by using one byte, which gives an unsigned range of 0..255, or a signed range of -128..127. Unless the game ensures that the value cannot go below the minimum, you can often cause the value to wrap around to its maximum. This can be very useful if the value in question is your character's Strength or Level. With Baldur's Gate you can use an [[Infinity_Engine#Inventory_Stack_Underflow|item-swapping trick]] to wrap an item's quantity value around to 65535, the two byte unsigned maximum. With Suikoden II you can use the Kindness Rune to add 255 Attack by making your Kindness value lower than 0.

===Memory Corruption===
Memory corruption can be used to completely break open a game. This volatile type of bug can have profound effects on the stability and state of the game. A well-known corruption bug occurs on Final Fantasy VI when Relm uses Sketch after Vanish, causing it to miss the target. The program will then attempt to read an area of memory that does not contain any enemy data, with potentially exploitable results.

Bughunting

2009-08-31T03:39:49Z

Enhasa: minor changes for conciseness, clarity, removing weasel words

No program is perfect. By extension, no game is bug-free. The techniques here will help you find bugs, if none are already known. Hopefully the bugs you find will be useful, and you will then add them to this wiki on the appropriate game page!

See also: [[Generic techniques]].

==All Games==
===Pausing===
In many cases, especially with older games, you can exploit quirks with how a game handles pausing. Most commonly they confuse timed events such as reloading or hitstun. You can use this trick with Mega Man 1 to repeatedly hit bosses with the Lightning weapon, by pausing each time it hits and waiting a short duration for the boss's hitstun to reset before un-pausing. Pausing could also reset the character's vertical velocity to zero, allowing you to make extra-long jumps.

===Hidden Worlds===
Where the world is made up of discrete rooms, there must be some mechanic whereby the game decides which room to place you in next, usually occurring when you reach a boundary. If this mechanic were confused, perhaps by another event happening at the same instant the boundary is triggered, then it may send you to the wrong place. Alternately, you might try facing the wrong direction when triggering a boundary. This can lead to completely un-navigable areas or empty copies of other rooms. The Pokemon series' 'Glitch Cities' can be entered by exiting the Safari Zone in an unintended fashion.
===Scrolling===
When games scroll in any direction, they must decide what to put on the screen next. As with the Hidden Worlds bugs, confusing this decision process can have strange results. By hitting Select at appropriate times during Metroid II, entire lines of wall can be skipped out when the engine scrolls them on screen. This allows you to enter glitchy areas and skip vast sections of the map. The 4th-generation Pokemon games have a [[Pokémon_Diamond/Pearl/Platinum#Glitches|tweaking trick]] with much the same effect.

==Action Games==
===Physics===
Let's say the game you are playing runs at 60Hz. In most modern-ish PC games you can change this as long as your monitor supports it. While this frequency only tells you how many frames the graphics engine outputs per second, it also tends to be how many 'game ticks' the engine runs per second. When combined with a little understanding about how games implement physics, it can blow the game wide open.

Almost all games with physics will go with some kind of simplified Newtonian method. What this means is that your character (and possibly other actors in the game world) will have at least position and velocity. Most of these engines boil down to running "NewPosition = OldPosition + Velocity" every game tick, which has some interesting consequences. If you are going so fast that on consecutive game ticks you are either side of a wall, the game may not register a collision. This is used with Half-Life to go through a barrier and with countless other games to occasionally ignore corners.

===Bunnyhopping===
How do you reach such ludicrous speeds in the first place? A common technique (at least in First-Person Shooters) is to jump repeatedly. This technique works because many engines calculate "If Player on Ground: NewVelocity = OldVelocity - Friction" every tick. The more time you spend off the ground, the less friction will be applied to you. However, in order to actually gain speed rather than maintain it, you will need to do something else. The 'something else' depends entirely on the game's engine. Quake runners continually move the mouse from side-to-side whilst using the strafe keys; Half-Life 2 mandates that you use alternate strafe keys as you land. Experiment.

Some games consciously implement bunnyhopping: Painkiller and Quake 3 let you just jumping while holding forward.

==RPGs==
===Integer Underflow===
Games which need to store values do so based on how large that value might possibly get. A standard way of doing this on old games is by using one byte, which gives an unsigned range of 0..255, or a signed range of -128..127. Unless the game ensures that the value cannot go below the minimum, you can often cause the value to wrap around to its maximum. This can be very useful if the value in question is your character's Strength or Level. With Baldur's Gate you can use an [[Infinity_Engine#Inventory_Stack_Underflow|item-swapping trick]] to wrap an item's quantity value around to 65535, the two byte unsigned maximum. With Suikoden II you can use the Kindness Rune to add 255 Attack by making your Kindness value lower than 0.

===Memory Corruption===
Memory corruption can be used to completely break open a game. This volatile type of bug can have profound effects on the stability and state of the game. A well-known corruption bug occurs on Final Fantasy VI when Relm uses Sketch after Vanish, causing it to miss the target. The program will then attempt to read an area of memory that does not contain any enemy data, with potentially exploitable results.

DScaler

2009-01-18T20:20:16Z

Enhasa: lots of random stuff

==Overview==

DScaler is an amazing piece of software. There are still many people who will refuse to buy a capture card that does not support it, as most cards come with terrible drivers and software. DScaler talks directly to the hardware without using drivers and displays the video using hardware overlay. Not only do you not have to put up with poorly written drivers and programs, this method is MUCH, MUCH faster. You can enjoy virtually lagless play while capturing and record good video that would otherwise be an unwatchable mess in other software like VirtualDub. If you want, you can also tweak all sorts of previously unavailable internal card settings to achieve the best picture possible. DScaler will commonly be the difference between thinking your capture card is great, or a piece of crap.

A brief note about capture cards. You can get great quality from a very cheap card, even in the $10-$15 range. Even low-end cards can support s-video input and line-in for stereo audio, so make sure to check before you buy some card that only supports composite or mono. Audio input is nice and often included, but not necessary; without it, you can just send the audio from your console directly to your sound card and use it to record the audio. If your capture card or sound card doesn't take in RCA inputs, you can get a very cheap [http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Cable/dp/B000V06UEO/ RCA to headphone jack cable], or your capture card may already come with one for the line-in.

 
==Caveats==

The biggest caveat is support. Since DScaler talks directly to the capture card, support for each chipset needs to be individually added. Fortunately, most cards use the same chips. Generally, if you have a low or mid-end PCI card, which will almost always use either the bt8x8, cx2388x, or saa713x chipsets, it will be supported. (The ATI All-in-Wonder is an exception since it has its own ATI chip, although the TV Wonder is supported.) USB cards and PVR cards with built-in hardware encoding are generally not supported, and they also tend to have a great deal of lag. If you are unsure if your card is supported, you can find the chipset on Google or just ask. You could also try running DScaler and see if it works.

DScaler requires hardware overlay to minimize latency, and only one process may use this at a time. This means if you are already using hardware overlay in another program (maybe it's turned on in your media player as well), it will give an error upon loading. Close the other program and try again.

Since DScaler uses ring 0 for highest-level control to interact directly with the hardware, this means that if it crashes, it will take down your entire system and you will have to reboot. I've never had it crash, but I guess this is still a consideration.

 
==Setup==

Go to the [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=7420 download page] and get whatever the newest release is. It should be stable even if it's not listed as a "stable" version. Run the installer. Upon running the program, it should bring up a dialog box asking you for your card. You can try the auto-detect if you don't know or if it's not listed. Many cards are similar so it can still work even if the name isn't the same. Then there should be a dialog box for performance settings, filled in with detected defaults. Unless your computer is from the 20th century, you should select all the highest quality settings: Above 1 GHz, Best picture quality, DScaler alone. If your card has a TV tuner and you care at all about watching TV, the next thing to do is scan for channels just like you would with a stand-alone TV: Channels/Setup. If your card came with a remote control, you can use software like [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=145751 EventGhost] to control DScaler.

At this point, you can play around in the menus for a bit to set some of the countless options how you like. The included help is very useful, or you can ask for help in fine-tuning settings. Pixel width should be set the same as or a multiple of the source: 640 for NTSC console output, 768 for PAL, 720 for TV or DVD material. Audio input should be either Tuner for TV or Stereo for console output; you should check pin 1 if it's there. Similarly, go to Settings/Audio Mixer setup and disable the hardware mute. Then go into Settings/Advanced Settings and click on the first row, for your card chipset. If the options are there, I find the best picture is achieved by turning on AGC (including crush), comb, full luma range, and leaving everything else unchecked.

If you really want to reduce lag, besides common-sense stuff like not opening 50 other programs or turning on every filter, there are a couple Advanced Settings to get the latency all the way down to 16 ms levels. Turn Aspect Ratio/Defer Setting Overlay off, Wait for Vertical Blank off, Field Timing/Maximum Shift to 0, Decoding/Hurry When Late on, Wait for Flip off, Threads to high, Overlay/Back Buffers to 1.

 
==Watching==

Use Video Input to switch between TV tuner, composite, s-video, etc. To change channels, hit page up/down to go up or down by one channel, or just type the number of the channel.

The two most important menus for picture quality are Deinterlace and Filters. First, uncheck Automatic Detection and JudderTerminator. The next thing you will want to do is select the general deinterlacer you like the best. I recommend Greedy High Motion, but you can also try TomsMoComp or MoComp2. Click on Show UI, check In-Between Frames (acts like JudderTerminator) and Horizontal and Vertical Sharpness. I keep Auto Pull-Down (acts like Automatic Detection) and Median Filter (acts like Noise Reduction, but adds a tiny bit of lag) unchecked. Next you can see what filters you want to use. I personally have them all turned off, but these can be useful if they improve your picture: Temporal Comb, Adaptive Noise Reduction, Chroma. If you can't really tell a difference or know why you would want any of these, just leave them all off.

If your source is an old console (PS1, N64, Saturn, or older), you can try the Old Game deinterlacer; if you are playing via RF or composite, check the composite box in the Old Game settings. Otherwise (TV, DVD, newer console), use Greedy High Motion. If you are using RF or composite, it might be a good idea to turn on the Temporal Comb filter, especially if you see dot crawl, shimmering, or rainbowing.

 
==Recording==

To take a screenshot, just hit L. You can change the options in the settings, like format (lossy jpeg or lossless tiff that you will want to compress with [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=151404&package_id=167423 OptiPNG]), compression, location to save, periodic screenshots, preview mode, etc.

To record a quick clip for YouTube or personal use, here is the easiest and fastest way. Set pixel width to 320 for NTSC or 384 for PAL. Go to Actions/Recording/Options and select a lossy codec like [http://www.xvid.org/Downloads.43.0.html Xvid] or [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=213809&package_id=257567 x264] under Compression Options. Select No Limit, averaged 1/2-height, and YUY2. Now, whenever you want to record, hit Shift-R to record and Shift-S to stop. If your video is jerky, you should try recording with a [[Lossless Codecs Comparison|lossless codec]] and converting to a lossy format after editing with something like [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=57023 AviSynth], [http://virtualdub.sourceforge.net/ VirtualDub], [[MeGUI]], or [[Batch Encoding]].

If you're recording for SDA, you will obviously want a high quality end video. This means that you will want to capture the picture as purely as possible, so that any touches can be made later. So turn off all filters and select Simple Weave (essentially a dummy deinterlacer). Make sure pixel width is 640 for NTSC or 768 for PAL. DScaler produces video at your monitor refresh rate to maintain smoothness, so to record at 29.97 fps for NTSC, set your refresh rate to 59.94. You can use your video card drivers, but they often round, so in that case use [http://entechtaiwan.com/util/ps.shtm PowerStrip] to set it exactly. Go to Actions/Recording/Options and select a [[Lossless Codecs Comparison|lossless codec]] under Compression Options. Select No Limit, Full Height, and YUY2. Whenever you are ready to record, hit Shift-R to record and Shift-S to stop. You can take the resulting video and encode it yourself to SDA guidelines, using one of the methods above, or you can make your job simpler by using [[Anri-chan]].

DScaler

2009-01-16T21:01:44Z

Enhasa: changing channels

==Overview==

DScaler is an amazing piece of software. There are still many people who will refuse to buy a capture card that does not support it, as most cards come with terrible drivers and software. DScaler talks directly to the hardware without using drivers and displays the video using hardware overlay. Not only do you not have to put up with poorly written drivers and programs, this method is MUCH, MUCH faster. You can enjoy virtually lagless play while capturing and record good video that would otherwise be an unwatchable mess in other software like VirtualDub. If you want, you can also tweak all sorts of previously unavailable internal card settings to achieve the best picture possible. DScaler will commonly be the difference between thinking your capture card is great, or a piece of crap.

A brief note about capture cards. You can get great quality from a very cheap card, even in the $10-$15 range. Even low-end cards can support s-video input and line-in for stereo audio, so make sure to check before you buy some card that only supports composite or mono. Audio input is nice and often included, but not necessary; without it, you can just send the audio from your console directly to your sound card and use it to record the audio. If your capture card or sound card doesn't take in RCA inputs, you can get a very cheap [http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Cable/dp/B000V06UEO/ RCA to headphone jack cable], or your capture card may already come with one for the line-in.

 
==Caveats==

The biggest caveat is support. Since DScaler talks directly to the capture card, support for each chipset needs to be individually added. Fortunately, most cards use the same chips. Generally, if you have a low or mid-end PCI card, which will almost always use either the bt8x8, cx2388x, or saa713x chipsets, it will be supported. (The ATI All-in-Wonder is an exception since it has its own ATI chip, although the TV Wonder is supported.) USB cards and PVR cards with built-in hardware encoding are generally not supported, and they also tend to have a great deal of lag. If you are unsure if your card is supported, you can find the chipset on Google or just ask. You could also try running DScaler and see if it works.

DScaler requires hardware overlay to minimize latency, and only one process may use this at a time. This means if you are already using hardware overlay in another program (maybe it's turned on in your media player as well), it will give an error upon loading. Close the other program and try again.

Since DScaler uses ring 0 for highest-level control to interact directly with the hardware, this means that if it crashes, it will take down your entire system and you will have to reboot. I've never had it crash, but I guess this is still a consideration.

 
==Setup==

Go to the [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=7420 download page] and get whatever the newest release is. It should be stable even if it's not listed as a "stable" version. Run the installer. Upon running the program, it should bring up a dialog box asking you for your card. You can try the auto-detect if you don't know or if it's not listed. Many cards are similar so it can still work even if the name isn't the same. Then there should be a dialog box for performance settings, filled in with detected defaults. Unless your computer is from the 20th century, you should select all the highest quality settings: Above 1 GHz, Best picture quality, DScaler alone. If your card has a TV tuner and you care at all about watching TV, the next thing to do is scan for channels just like you would with a stand-alone TV: Channels/Setup. If your card came with a remote control, you can use software like [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=145751 EventGhost] to control DScaler.

At this point, you can play around in the menus for a bit to set some of the countless options how you like. The included help is very useful, or you can ask for help in fine-tuning settings. Pixel width should be set the same as or a multiple of the source: 640 for NTSC console output, 768 for PAL, 720 for TV or DVD material. Audio input should be either Tuner for TV or Stereo for console output; you should check pin 1 if it's there. Similarly, go to Settings/Audio Mixer setup and disable the hardware mute. Then go into Settings/Advanced Settings and click on the first row, for your card chipset. If the options are there, I find the best picture is achieved by turning on AGC (including crush), comb, full luma range, and leaving everything else unchecked.

 
==Watching==

Use Video Input to switch between TV tuner, composite, s-video, etc. To change channels, hit page up/down to go up or down by one channel, or just type the number of the channel.

The two most important menus for picture quality are Deinterlace and Filters. First, uncheck Automatic Detection and JudderTerminator. The next thing you will want to do is select the general deinterlacer you like the best. I recommend Greedy High Motion. Click on Show UI, check In-Between Frames (acts like JudderTerminator) and Horizontal and Vertical Sharpness. I keep Auto Pull-Down (acts like Automatic Detection) and Median Filter (acts like Noise Reduction, but adds a tiny bit of lag) unchecked. Next you can see what filters you want to use. I personally have them all turned off, but these can be useful if they improve your picture: Temporal Comb, Adaptive Noise Reduction, Chroma. If you can't really tell a difference or know why you would want any of these, just leave them all off.

If your source is an old console (PS1, N64, Saturn, or older), you can try the Old Game deinterlacer; if you are playing via RF or composite, check the composite box in the Old Game settings. Otherwise (TV, DVD, newer console), use Greedy High Motion. If you are using RF or composite, it might be a good idea to turn on the Temporal Comb filter, especially if you see dot crawl, shimmering, or rainbowing.

 
==Recording==

To take a screenshot, just hit L. You can change the options in the settings, like format (lossy jpeg or lossless tiff that you will want to compress with [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=151404&package_id=167423 OptiPNG]), compression, location to save, periodic screenshots, preview mode, etc.

To record a quick clip for YouTube or personal use, here is the easiest and fastest way. Set pixel width to 320 for NTSC or 384 for PAL. Go to Actions/Recording/Options and select a lossy codec like [http://www.xvid.org/Downloads.43.0.html Xvid] or [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=213809&package_id=257567 x264] under Compression Options. Select No Limit, averaged 1/2-height, and YUY2. Now, whenever you want to record, hit Shift-R to record and Shift-S to stop. You can use the resulting video if you like, or edit with something like [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=57023 AviSynth] or [http://virtualdub.sourceforge.net/ VirtualDub]. If your video is jerky, you should try recording with a [[Lossless Codecs Comparison|lossless codec]] and converting to a lossy format after editing.

If you're recording for SDA, you will obviously want a high quality end video. This means that you will want to capture the picture as purely as possible, so that any touches can be made later. So turn off all filters and select Simple Weave (essentially a dummy deinterlacer). Make sure pixel width is 640 for NTSC or 768 for PAL. Go to Actions/Recording/Options and select a [[Lossless Codecs Comparison|lossless codec]] under Compression Options. Select No Limit, Full Height, and YUY2 -- you have nothing to gain by selecting RGB here. Whenever you are ready to record, hit Shift-R to record and Shift-S to stop. You can take the resulting video and encode it yourself to SDA guidelines, possibly using [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=57023 AviSynth], [http://virtualdub.sourceforge.net/ VirtualDub], [[MeGUI]], or [[Batch Encoding]]. Or you can make your job simpler by using [[Anri-chan]] or even torrenting the raw files to Nate.

DScaler

2009-01-13T04:18:55Z

Enhasa: created the page

==Overview==

DScaler is an amazing piece of software. There are still many people who will refuse to buy a capture card that does not support it, as most cards come with terrible drivers and software. DScaler talks directly to the hardware without using drivers and displays the video using hardware overlay. Not only do you not have to put up with poorly written drivers and programs, this method is MUCH, MUCH faster. You can enjoy virtually lagless play while capturing and record good video that would otherwise be an unwatchable mess in other software like VirtualDub. If you want, you can also tweak all sorts of previously unavailable internal card settings to achieve the best picture possible. DScaler will commonly be the difference between thinking your capture card is great, or a piece of crap.

A brief note about capture cards. You can get great quality from a very cheap card, even in the $10-$15 range. Even low-end cards can support s-video input and line-in for stereo audio, so make sure to check before you buy some card that only supports composite or mono. Audio input is nice and often included, but not necessary; without it, you can just send the audio from your console directly to your sound card and use it to record the audio. If your capture card or sound card doesn't take in RCA inputs, you can get a very cheap [http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Cable/dp/B000V06UEO/ RCA to headphone jack cable], or your capture card may already come with one for the line-in.

 
==Caveats==

The biggest caveat is support. Since DScaler talks directly to the capture card, support for each chipset needs to be individually added. Fortunately, most cards use the same chips. Generally, if you have a low or mid-end PCI card, which will almost always use either the bt8x8, cx2388x, or saa713x chipsets, it will be supported. (The ATI All-in-Wonder is an exception since it has its own ATI chip, although the TV Wonder is supported.) USB cards and PVR cards with built-in hardware encoding are generally not supported, and they also tend to have a great deal of lag. If you are unsure if your card is supported, you can find the chipset on Google or just ask. You could also try running DScaler and see if it works.

DScaler requires hardware overlay to minimize latency, and only one process may use this at a time. This means if you are already using hardware overlay in another program (maybe it's turned on in your media player as well), it will give an error upon loading. Close the other program and try again.

Since DScaler uses ring 0 for highest-level control to interact directly with the hardware, this means that if it crashes, it will take down your entire system and you will have to reboot. I've never had it crash, but I guess this is still a consideration.

 
==Setup==

Go to the [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=7420 download page] and get whatever the newest release is. It should be stable even if it's not listed as a "stable" version. Run the installer. Upon running the program, it should bring up a dialog box asking you for your card. You can try the auto-detect if you don't know or if it's not listed. Many cards are similar so it can still work even if the name isn't the same. Then there should be a dialog box for performance settings, filled in with detected defaults. Unless your computer is from the 20th century, you should select all the highest quality settings: Above 1 GHz, Best picture quality, DScaler alone. If your card has a TV tuner and you care at all about watching TV, the next thing to do is scan for channels just like you would with a stand-alone TV: Channels/Setup. Use Video Input to switch between TV tuner, composite, s-video, etc.

At this point, you can play around in the menus for a bit to set some of the countless options how you like. The included help is very useful, or you can ask for help in fine-tuning settings. Pixel width should be set the same as or a multiple of the source: 640 for NTSC console output, 768 for PAL, 720 for TV or DVD material. Audio input should be either Tuner for TV or Stereo for console output; you should check pin 1 if it's there. Similarly, go to Settings/Audio Mixer setup and disable the hardware mute. Then go into Settings/Advanced Settings and click on the first row, for your card chipset. If the options are there, I find the best picture is achieved by turning on AGC (including crush), comb, full luma range, horizontal filter, and leaving everything else unchecked.

 
==Watching==

The two most important menus for picture quality are Deinterlace and Filters. First, uncheck Automatic Detection and JudderTerminator. The next thing you will want to do is select the general deinterlacer you like the best. I recommend Greedy High Motion. Click on Show UI, check In-Between Frames (acts like JudderTerminator) and Horizontal and Vertical Sharpness. I keep Auto Pull-Down (acts like Automatic Detection) and Median Filter (acts like Noise Reduction, but adds a tiny bit of lag) unchecked. Next you can see what filters you want to use. I personally have them all turned off, but these can be useful if they improve your picture: Temporal Comb, Adaptive Noise Reduction, Chroma. If you can't really tell a difference or know why you would want any of these, just leave them all off.

If your source is an old console (PS1, N64, Saturn, or older), you can try the Old Game deinterlacer; if you are playing via RF or composite, check the composite box in the Old Game settings. Otherwise (TV, DVD, newer console), use Greedy High Motion. If you are using RF or composite, it might be a good idea to turn on the Temporal Comb filter, especially if you see dot crawl, shimmering, or rainbowing.

 
==Recording==

To take a screenshot, just hit L. You can change the options in the settings, like format (lossy jpeg or lossless tiff that you will want to compress with [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=151404&package_id=167423 OptiPNG]), compression, location to save, periodic screenshots, preview mode, etc.

To record a quick clip for YouTube or personal use, here is the easiest and fastest way. Set pixel width to 320 for NTSC or 384 for PAL. Go to Actions/Recording/Options and select a lossy codec like [http://www.xvid.org/Downloads.43.0.html Xvid] or [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=213809&package_id=257567 x264] under Compression Options. Select No Limit, averaged 1/2-height, and YUY2. Now, whenever you want to record, hit Shift-R to record and Shift-S to stop. You can use the resulting video if you like, or edit with something like [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=57023 AviSynth] or [http://virtualdub.sourceforge.net/ VirtualDub]. If your video is jerky, you should try recording with a [[Lossless Codecs Comparison|lossless codec]] and converting to a lossy format after editing.

If you're recording for SDA, you will obviously want a high quality end video. This means that you will want to capture the picture as purely as possible, so that any touches can be made later. So turn off all filters and select Simple Weave (essentially a dummy deinterlacer). Make sure pixel width is 640 for NTSC or 768 for PAL. Go to Actions/Recording/Options and select a [[Lossless Codecs Comparison|lossless codec]] under Compression Options. Select No Limit, Full Height, and YUY2 -- you have nothing to gain by selecting RGB here. Whenever you are ready to record, hit Shift-R to record and Shift-S to stop. You can take the resulting video and encode it yourself to SDA guidelines, possibly using [http://sourceforge.net/project/showfiles.php?group_id=57023 AviSynth], [http://virtualdub.sourceforge.net/ VirtualDub], [[MeGUI]], or [[Batch Encoding]]. Or you can make your job simpler by using [[Anri-chan]] or even torrenting the raw files to Nate.

Main Page

2009-01-13T03:25:08Z

Enhasa:

Welcome to the [http://speeddemosarchive.com/ Speed Demos Archive] Knowledge Base. Here you will find information related to speedrunning and video capture. Also be sure to check out the [http://speeddemosarchive.com/faq.html FAQ]!

__NOTOC__
== Current Contents ==
* [[Anri-chan|Do everything for me! Automated encoding with Anri-chan]]
* [[General advice|General advice, tips & tricks]]
* [[Glossary of terms]]
* [[DF|List of dimensions and framerates]]

===Getting Started: Recording a...===
* [[Console Recording|Console game]]
* [[Digital Capture|PC game]]
* [[Game Boy Capture|Game Boy, Game Boy Color, or Game Boy Advance game]]
* [[DS|Nintendo DS game]]
* [[PSP|PSP game]]

===Media===
* [[VHS|VHS Info]]
* [[DVD|DVD Info]]
* [[Recording Medium]]
* [[Unfinalized DVD|Recovering data from unfinalized DVDs]]

===Capture===
* [[Video Capture Devices]]
* [[Analog Capture|Analog Capture (game consoles)]]
* [[Digital Capture|Digital Capture (PC games)]]
* [[Mac Capture]]
* [[DScaler|Using DScaler with your capture card]]

===Editing===
* [[AviSynth]]
* [[Progressive Audio Desync |Fixing Progressive Audio Desync]]
* [[Subtitles]]
* [[Audio Commentary]]
* [[Splitting / Appending]]

===Compressing===
* [[MeGUI|H.264 / AAC with MeGUI]]
* [[Xvid / MP3 with MeGUI]]
* [[Batch Encoding|H.264 / AAC / Xvid / MP3 automation with CLI and batch files]]
* [[Lossless Codecs Comparison|Lossless Codecs]]
* [[Variable Frame Rate MP4]]

===Rules===
* [[Verification Guidelines]]
* [[Super Game Boy timing]]
* [[TAS|What is TAS?]]

===Other Pages===
* [[SMPlayer|SMPlayer: a media player recommended by SDA]]
* [[Bitrate Calculator]]
* [[Enabling_BitTorrent_Encryption|Enabling Encryption in BitTorrent Clients]]
* [[VLC in Vista]]
* [[Video hosting services]]
* [[Famster]]
* [[Amu-chan]]
* [[PC Runs Collection]]

===Old===
* [[Recording FAQ|Old Recording FAQ (large)]]

Lossless Codecs Comparison

2009-01-13T03:22:25Z

Enhasa: added codec installation instructions

Many codecs are installed by downloading a zip file, extracting anywhere, then right clicking the .inf file and clicking Install. It should be installed extremely quickly, and the extracted files can then be deleted.

Areas of concern in capturing are processor speed and hard drive speed. If your computer is very old and processor speed is more of a concern, use [http://neuron2.net/www.math.berkeley.edu/benrg/huffyuv.html Huffyuv]. If hard drive speed is more of a concern, use [http://lags.leetcode.net/codec.html Lagarith]. If your processor is an absolute beast, you can use FFV1 (included with [http://ffdshow-tryout.sourceforge.net/download.php FFDShow]). A comparison of lossless codecs can be found [http://compression.ru/video/codec_comparison/lossless_codecs_2007_en.html here].

For screen capture, it is a good idea to use a lossless codec that was built for this sort of task. [http://www.techsmith.com/download/codecs.asp TSCC] aka Techsmith, which comes with Camtasia, and [[Media:zmbv.zip|ZMBV]], which comes with DosBox, are good choices. [http://compression.ru/video/ls-codec/screen_capture_codec_en.html MSU SCLC] is a wonderful screen capture codec, but is incompatible with Fraps, which comes with its own codec.

For archival purposes, best compression can be achieved with [http://www.compression.ru/video/ls-codec/index_en.html MSU]. [http://www.yuvsoft.com/download/lossless-codec/index.html YULS] compresses even more, but forward compatibility is not guaranteed.

[[Image:lossless_codecs_comparison.png]]

Here is the old thread on SDA. ;) Might be out of date, but there's some good general info anyway.

[http://speeddemosarchive.com/forum/index.php/topic,3585.0.html http://speeddemosarchive.com/forum/index.php/topic,3585.0.html]

DVD

2009-01-12T01:05:30Z

Enhasa: minor explanations that tie lag reduction methods into others

==Overview==

Recording with a DVD recorder will produce far superior quality than recording with a VCR, so it is well worth the investment. Also, being a digital format, it poses far less "traps" to deal with than VHS. When you record with a DVD recorder, be sure to use SP or better speed. See your DVD recorder's manual for more info about this. You will wreck the quality of your run if you record on a speed worse than SP. Before you even purchase a DVD recorder, make sure to think about [[Recording Medium|recording medium]]. If you decide to mail your DVD(s) to me for processing, proceed to the [http://speeddemosarchive.com/submit.html submission guidelines] for information about how to contact SDA. Otherwise, if you want to try to encode your run yourself, [[DVD#Self_Encoding|read here]]. However, there is one problem that needs to be taken care of whether or not you encode by yourself: lag.

 
==Lag==

When recording with a VCR, you hook your console's video out into the VCR, and you hook the VCR to your TV. The signal travels from the TV to the VCR, which records it, then sends it to the TV to be displayed. Because of the way the VCR writes the data on the tape, there is no lag. However, when a DVD recorder is hooked up in this fashion, it must digitize the data and, in our case, record it before outputting it. Unfortunately, no DVD recorder out on the market is able to do this instantaneously. Therefore, you will see and hear what was really happening about a half-second or so ago. Obviously, this can really mess with your ability to play the game well.

 
===Reducing Lag===

There are several ways to eliminate lag and play normally. Various methods are listed here in order of most desirable to least desirable. If one method is infeasible, try the next one.

1. You may not have to use any extra equipment at all. If your console has multiple high-quality outputs (S-video or better... few do at this time), plug one each into your TV and DVD recorder. Alternately, if your TV has video-out, just connect your console to the TV, and the TV video-out to the DVD recorder. In PAL regions you can use the bidirectionality of SCART to record video by plugging your console into your TV then your TV into your DVD recorder's input with a SCART cable.

2. Use a combined S-Video and Composite cable. This cable has four plugs: the three standard yellow, white, and red plugs and an S-Video plug. This lets you plug the S-Video plug and the two audio plugs (the white and red ones) into your DVD recorder and the composite video (yellow) plug into your TV. These cables are usually inexpensive-they can usually be found for around $5, and often support multiple consoles via multiple connectors. Note that you won't hear audio unless you either send optical/digital out from your console to your speakers, or you use [http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-RCA-Splitter-Female-Male/dp/B000V1PB3O/ unpowered RCA splitters] to send audio to both the DVD recorder and TV/speakers.

[[Image:combined_cable.png]]

Note: There are two kinds of S-Video cables--ones that connect your console to an S-Video in and ones that connect an S-Video out to an S-Video in. The former are usually inexpensive; the latter are quite spendy. Make sure you buy the correct kind. Also, you may need extension cables but this will still be less expensive than using a powered splitter.

3. Use a [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103065 powered splitter]. Basically, you plug in the video and audio from your console, and it sends it to two different places (your TV and your DVD recorder). This will completely eliminate lag, but costs about $45, and you won't be recording S-Video unless you use an S-Video cable to connect the console to the splitter AND the splitter to the DVD recorder.

[[Image:Splittercabeling.jpg]]

4. Use [http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-RCA-Splitter-Female-Male/dp/B000V1PB3O/ unpowered splitter cables] (link for illustration only; there are a few variations that do the same job). You will need enough female ports, from one or more cables, for the two audio plugs and the video plug(s). If using Composite (yellow plug) or Component (red, green and blue plugs) video, you can use the same type of splitter cable as the audio plugs; if using S-Video you'll need an S-Video specific splitter cable, which is fairly hard to find.

Plug the console's output into the female ports, and the two male plugs for each into the TV and recorder. Then set your recorder off and switch to the console's normal channel on your TV (not the recorder's channel) to play without lag.

This solution has one main drawback, which is that the electrical signal is split between each input, hampering the quality of the signal. This affects both the video and audio, but is only really noticeable in the video. The quality is still more than acceptable for SDA, however - split S-Video still looks much better than unsplit Composite.

This method is like #2 except the video is split just like the audio is.

5. If your console happens to have both an RF out and a composite out, just send the RF to your TV and the composite to your DVD recorder.

This method is like #1 except you will have to record in composite.

6. Connect your console to a VCR, then use the RF out (a cable that sometimes has a screw on the end) of your VCR to connect it to your TV and the composite out (red, white, and yellow cables) to connect it to your DVD recorder. You will be recording composite video or RF (depending on how you connected your console to the VCR) instead of S-Video.

This method is like #3 with a VCR in place of the powered splitter.

 

==Using Multiple Discs==

It will be necessary for you to change discs mid-run if your single-segment run runs longer than 2 hours (a standard DVD holds only 2 hours of video at SP, the lowest allowable quality/speed). Simply pause the game, stop the recording, change discs, start recording again, then unpause the game and continue your run. Either you or nate can rejoin the run before the encoding phase. Be sure to record plenty of time at the pause screen on both discs (30 seconds should be sufficient) so that you don't accidentally miss recording part of your run, which is grounds for rejection.

 
==Self Encoding==

Turn on file extensions in Windows by going to Windows Explorer -> Tools -> Folder Options -> View, uncheck "Hide extensions for known filetypes".

Make sure to finalize the DVD before continuing with this guide. Finalizing is done on the DVD recorder itself. DVD-RAM and DVD+RW are the only exceptions.

You will need to install a large number of separate pieces of software to get your run off of the DVD and encode it to H.264 / Xvid. All of this software only runs on Microsoft Windows, so you will need to have access to a computer running Windows to proceed.

 
===DVD software installation===

Download the latest version of [http://neuron2.net/dgmpgdec/dgmpgdec.html DGMPGDec] utilities by Donald Graft and extract the contents to "C:\Program Files\DGMPGDec". This folder contains the DGIndex.exe application and the important DGDecode.dll file. Leave this folder alone for the moment.

 
===Extracting the DVD source files===

You have two options. You can either copy the contents of the whole DVD, which can be up to 4.3 GB of data, or copy only specific parts such as your successful attempts. If you plan to send your DVD files to Nate over the Internet, you'll be following the second option.

Insert the finalized DVD into the DVD drive in your computer (if the DVD has not been finalized in the DVD recorder, it probably won't work).

 
====Option 1====

Navigate to your DVD drive and select all of the files from the VIDEO_TS folder on the DVD you inserted. Copy them to a folder where you will do your video processing.

[[Image:DVDsourcefiles.png]]

 

====Option 2====

Open DGIndex.exe inside the DGMPGDec directory you unzipped during the software installation. Go to Audio -> Output Method and set it to demux all tracks. Load the vob files either from your hard drive or (more likely) straight from the disc. Use the slider to move to the place where you want to make your starting cut and press the left bracket button. The slider kind of sucks; you can use the arrow keys to get more precision. As you can see in the picture I've decided to start the cut at the menu screen, and have yet to specify an end point which I'm sure you can handle by yourself now. DO NOT leave extra footage at the beginning or end of the video. This has the potential to cause audio/video desync. Make sure you don't cut out something you want to keep, though.

[[Image:dgindexcut.jpg]]

Once you've done that, go to File -> Save Project and Demux Video. This will create an m2v video file, an ac3/mpa/wav sound file, and a d2v file. DO NOT CHANGE THE NAME OF THE AUDIO FILE!

Delete the d2v file. It is useless since it is still pointing at the files on the DVD.

At this point, if you're sending in your files to SDA, then you have all you need. Otherwise continue to the next section where you will create a fresh d2v file which will be pointing to the m2v file instead of the DVD.

 

===Creating the project file (.d2v)===

Open DGIndex.exe inside the DGMPGDec directory you unzipped during the software installation. Go to Audio -> Output Method and set it to demux all tracks. Now go to File -> Open, or just hit F2 and navigate to your video processing folder.

* If you chose Option 1, you should select ALL (yes, ALL) of the .VOB (or .VRO) files. If you have more than one, use the "Add" button. For the files named something like "VTS_01_1.VOB" and "VTS_01_2.VOB," put them in order of number. If you have a file called "VIDEO_TS.VOB," put it before the others.

* If you chose Option 2, select the m2v file.

Hit OK twice to proceed to the main screen. From here, simply go to File -> Save Project and save the file with a name you can remember.

Important: Both options result in the extraction of an audio file. The filename will look something like "vob T01 2_0ch 192Kbps DELAY -84ms.ac3". MAKE SURE that you keep the part that I've underlined as this information is needed later on. Even if the delay is 0, leave it alone, it's good to be consistent.

Note: If you load up your file in DGIndex and get something like [http://speeddemosarchive.com/kb/index.php/Image:Dgmpgdec2.JPG this], try unzipping [http://speeddemosarchive.com/kb/images/a/af/Vob.zip this file] and loading it into DGIndex with the rest of your vob/vro files. Move it to the top of the file list and click OK; you should see a menu-like screen and, if you move the slider at the bottom, your file.

 

You can now proceed to the [[AviSynth]] page.

Return to the [[Main Page|front page]].

File:Combined cable.png

2009-01-12T00:55:40Z

Enhasa:

DVD

2009-01-12T00:55:21Z

Enhasa: edited the lag section

==Overview==

Recording with a DVD recorder will produce far superior quality than recording with a VCR, so it is well worth the investment. Also, being a digital format, it poses far less "traps" to deal with than VHS. When you record with a DVD recorder, be sure to use SP or better speed. See your DVD recorder's manual for more info about this. You will wreck the quality of your run if you record on a speed worse than SP. Before you even purchase a DVD recorder, make sure to think about [[Recording Medium|recording medium]]. If you decide to mail your DVD(s) to me for processing, proceed to the [http://speeddemosarchive.com/submit.html submission guidelines] for information about how to contact SDA. Otherwise, if you want to try to encode your run yourself, [[DVD#Self_Encoding|read here]]. However, there is one problem that needs to be taken care of whether or not you encode by yourself: lag.

 
==Lag==

When recording with a VCR, you hook your console's video out into the VCR, and you hook the VCR to your TV. The signal travels from the TV to the VCR, which records it, then sends it to the TV to be displayed. Because of the way the VCR writes the data on the tape, there is no lag. However, when a DVD recorder is hooked up in this fashion, it must digitize the data and, in our case, record it before outputting it. Unfortunately, no DVD recorder out on the market is able to do this instantaneously. Therefore, you will see and hear what was really happening about a half-second or so ago. Obviously, this can really mess with your ability to play the game well.

 
===Reducing Lag===

There are several ways to eliminate lag and play normally. Various methods are listed here in order of most desirable to least desirable. If one method is infeasible, try the next one.

1. If your TV has video-out, the process is simple. Just connect your console to the TV, and the TV video-out to the DVD recorder. Alternately, if your console has multiple high-quality outputs, plug one each into your TV and DVD recorder. In PAL regions you can use the bidirectionality of SCART to record video by plugging your console into your TV then your TV into your DVD recorder's input with a SCART cable.

2. Use a combined S-Video and Composite cable. This cable has four plugs: the three standard yellow, white, and red plugs and an S-Video plug. This lets you plug the S-Video plug and the two audio plugs (the white and red ones) into your DVD recorder and the composite video (yellow) plug into your TV. These cables are usually inexpensive-they can usually be found for around $5, and often support multiple consoles via multiple connectors. Note that you won't hear audio unless you either send optical/digital out from your console to your speakers, or you use [http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-RCA-Splitter-Female-Male/dp/B000V1PB3O/ unpowered RCA splitters] to send audio to both the DVD recorder and TV/speakers.

[[Image:combined_cable.png]]

Note: There are two kinds of S-Video cables--ones that connect your console to an S-Video in and ones that connect an S-Video out to an S-Video in. The former are usually inexpensive; the latter are quite spendy. Make sure you buy the correct kind. Also, you may need extension cables but this will still be less expensive than using a powered splitter.

3. Use a [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103065 powered splitter]. Basically, you plug in the video and audio from your console, and it sends it to two different places (your TV and your DVD recorder). This will completely eliminate lag, but costs about $45, and you won't be recording S-Video unless you use an S-Video cable to connect the console to the splitter AND the splitter to the DVD recorder.

[[Image:Splittercabeling.jpg]]

4. Use [http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-RCA-Splitter-Female-Male/dp/B000V1PB3O/ unpowered splitter cables] (link for illustration only; there are a few variations that do the same job). You will need enough female ports, from one or more cables, for the two audio plugs and the video plug(s). If using Composite (yellow plug) or Component (red, green and blue plugs) video, you can use the same type of splitter cable as the audio plugs; if using S-Video you'll need an S-Video specific splitter cable, which is fairly hard to find.

Plug the console's output into the female ports, and the two male plugs for each into the TV and recorder. Then set your recorder off and switch to the console's normal channel on your TV (not the recorder's channel) to play without lag.

This solution has one main drawback, which is that the electrical signal is split between each input, hampering the quality of the signal. This affects both the video and audio, but is only really noticeable in the video. The quality is still more than acceptable for SDA, however - split S-Video still looks much better than unsplit Composite.

5. If your console happens to have both an RF out and a composite out, just send the RF to your TV and the composite to your DVD recorder.

6. Connect your console to a VCR, then use the RF out (a cable that sometimes has a screw on the end) of your VCR to connect it to your TV and the composite out (red, white, and yellow cables) to connect it to your DVD recorder. You will be recording composite video or RF (depending on how you connected your console to the VCR) instead of S-Video.

 

==Using Multiple Discs==

It will be necessary for you to change discs mid-run if your single-segment run runs longer than 2 hours (a standard DVD holds only 2 hours of video at SP, the lowest allowable quality/speed). Simply pause the game, stop the recording, change discs, start recording again, then unpause the game and continue your run. Either you or nate can rejoin the run before the encoding phase. Be sure to record plenty of time at the pause screen on both discs (30 seconds should be sufficient) so that you don't accidentally miss recording part of your run, which is grounds for rejection.

 
==Self Encoding==

Turn on file extensions in Windows by going to Windows Explorer -> Tools -> Folder Options -> View, uncheck "Hide extensions for known filetypes".

Make sure to finalize the DVD before continuing with this guide. Finalizing is done on the DVD recorder itself. DVD-RAM and DVD+RW are the only exceptions.

You will need to install a large number of separate pieces of software to get your run off of the DVD and encode it to H.264 / Xvid. All of this software only runs on Microsoft Windows, so you will need to have access to a computer running Windows to proceed.

 
===DVD software installation===

Download the latest version of [http://neuron2.net/dgmpgdec/dgmpgdec.html DGMPGDec] utilities by Donald Graft and extract the contents to "C:\Program Files\DGMPGDec". This folder contains the DGIndex.exe application and the important DGDecode.dll file. Leave this folder alone for the moment.

 
===Extracting the DVD source files===

You have two options. You can either copy the contents of the whole DVD, which can be up to 4.3 GB of data, or copy only specific parts such as your successful attempts. If you plan to send your DVD files to Nate over the Internet, you'll be following the second option.

Insert the finalized DVD into the DVD drive in your computer (if the DVD has not been finalized in the DVD recorder, it probably won't work).

 
====Option 1====

Navigate to your DVD drive and select all of the files from the VIDEO_TS folder on the DVD you inserted. Copy them to a folder where you will do your video processing.

[[Image:DVDsourcefiles.png]]

 

====Option 2====

Open DGIndex.exe inside the DGMPGDec directory you unzipped during the software installation. Go to Audio -> Output Method and set it to demux all tracks. Load the vob files either from your hard drive or (more likely) straight from the disc. Use the slider to move to the place where you want to make your starting cut and press the left bracket button. The slider kind of sucks; you can use the arrow keys to get more precision. As you can see in the picture I've decided to start the cut at the menu screen, and have yet to specify an end point which I'm sure you can handle by yourself now. DO NOT leave extra footage at the beginning or end of the video. This has the potential to cause audio/video desync. Make sure you don't cut out something you want to keep, though.

[[Image:dgindexcut.jpg]]

Once you've done that, go to File -> Save Project and Demux Video. This will create an m2v video file, an ac3/mpa/wav sound file, and a d2v file. DO NOT CHANGE THE NAME OF THE AUDIO FILE!

Delete the d2v file. It is useless since it is still pointing at the files on the DVD.

At this point, if you're sending in your files to SDA, then you have all you need. Otherwise continue to the next section where you will create a fresh d2v file which will be pointing to the m2v file instead of the DVD.

 

===Creating the project file (.d2v)===

Open DGIndex.exe inside the DGMPGDec directory you unzipped during the software installation. Go to Audio -> Output Method and set it to demux all tracks. Now go to File -> Open, or just hit F2 and navigate to your video processing folder.

* If you chose Option 1, you should select ALL (yes, ALL) of the .VOB (or .VRO) files. If you have more than one, use the "Add" button. For the files named something like "VTS_01_1.VOB" and "VTS_01_2.VOB," put them in order of number. If you have a file called "VIDEO_TS.VOB," put it before the others.

* If you chose Option 2, select the m2v file.

Hit OK twice to proceed to the main screen. From here, simply go to File -> Save Project and save the file with a name you can remember.

Important: Both options result in the extraction of an audio file. The filename will look something like "vob T01 2_0ch 192Kbps DELAY -84ms.ac3". MAKE SURE that you keep the part that I've underlined as this information is needed later on. Even if the delay is 0, leave it alone, it's good to be consistent.

Note: If you load up your file in DGIndex and get something like [http://speeddemosarchive.com/kb/index.php/Image:Dgmpgdec2.JPG this], try unzipping [http://speeddemosarchive.com/kb/images/a/af/Vob.zip this file] and loading it into DGIndex with the rest of your vob/vro files. Move it to the top of the file list and click OK; you should see a menu-like screen and, if you move the slider at the bottom, your file.

 

You can now proceed to the [[AviSynth]] page.

Return to the [[Main Page|front page]].

File:Lossless codecs comparison.png

2009-01-11T22:11:05Z

Enhasa:

Lossless Codecs Comparison

2009-01-11T22:10:41Z

Enhasa: added pic because pics are pretty

Current summary:

Areas of concern in capturing are processor speed and hard drive speed. If your computer is very old and processor speed is more of a concern, use [http://neuron2.net/www.math.berkeley.edu/benrg/huffyuv.html Huffyuv]. If hard drive speed is more of a concern, use [http://lags.leetcode.net/codec.html Lagarith]. If your processor is an absolute beast, you can use FFV1 (included with [http://ffdshow-tryout.sourceforge.net/download.php FFDShow]). A comparison of lossless codecs can be found [http://compression.ru/video/codec_comparison/lossless_codecs_2007_en.html here].

For screen capture, it is a good idea to use a lossless codec that was built for this sort of task. [http://www.techsmith.com/download/codecs.asp TSCC] aka Techsmith, which comes with Camtasia, and [[Media:zmbv.zip|ZMBV]], which comes with DosBox, are good choices. [http://compression.ru/video/ls-codec/screen_capture_codec_en.html MSU SCLC] is a wonderful screen capture codec, but is incompatible with Fraps, which comes with its own codec.

For archival purposes, best compression can be achieved with [http://www.compression.ru/video/ls-codec/index_en.html MSU]. [http://www.yuvsoft.com/download/lossless-codec/index.html YULS] compresses even more, but forward compatibility is not guaranteed.

[[Image:lossless_codecs_comparison.png]]

Here is the old thread on SDA. ;) Might be out of date, but there's some good general info anyway.

[http://speeddemosarchive.com/forum/index.php/topic,3585.0.html http://speeddemosarchive.com/forum/index.php/topic,3585.0.html]

Lossless Codecs Comparison

2009-01-11T22:05:50Z

Enhasa: needs to be zip instead of rar

Current summary:

Areas of concern in capturing are processor speed and hard drive speed. If your computer is very old and processor speed is more of a concern, use [http://neuron2.net/www.math.berkeley.edu/benrg/huffyuv.html Huffyuv]. If hard drive speed is more of a concern, use [http://lags.leetcode.net/codec.html Lagarith]. If your processor is an absolute beast, you can use FFV1 (included with [http://ffdshow-tryout.sourceforge.net/download.php FFDShow]). A comparison of lossless codecs can be found [http://compression.ru/video/codec_comparison/lossless_codecs_2007_en.html here].

For screen capture, it is a good idea to use a lossless codec that was built for this sort of task. [http://www.techsmith.com/download/codecs.asp TSCC] aka Techsmith, which comes with Camtasia, and [[Media:zmbv.zip|ZMBV]], which comes with DosBox, are good choices. [http://compression.ru/video/ls-codec/screen_capture_codec_en.html MSU SCLC] is a wonderful screen capture codec, but is incompatible with Fraps, which comes with its own servicable codec.

For archival purposes, best compression can be achieved with [http://www.compression.ru/video/ls-codec/index_en.html MSU]. [http://www.yuvsoft.com/download/lossless-codec/index.html YULS] compresses even more, but forward compatibility is not guaranteed.

---

Here is the old thread on SDA. ;) Might get out of date, but there's some good general info anyway.

[http://speeddemosarchive.com/forum/index.php/topic,3585.0.html http://speeddemosarchive.com/forum/index.php/topic,3585.0.html]

File:Zmbv.zip

2009-01-11T22:04:17Z

Enhasa:

Lossless Codecs Comparison

2009-01-11T22:02:10Z

Enhasa: added actual info, lol

Current summary:

Areas of concern in capturing are processor speed and hard drive speed. If your computer is very old and processor speed is more of a concern, use [http://neuron2.net/www.math.berkeley.edu/benrg/huffyuv.html Huffyuv]. If hard drive speed is more of a concern, use [http://lags.leetcode.net/codec.html Lagarith]. If your processor is an absolute beast, you can use FFV1 (included with [http://ffdshow-tryout.sourceforge.net/download.php FFDShow]). A comparison of lossless codecs can be found [http://compression.ru/video/codec_comparison/lossless_codecs_2007_en.html here].

For screen capture, it is a good idea to use a lossless codec that was built for this sort of task. [http://www.techsmith.com/download/codecs.asp TSCC] aka Techsmith, which comes with Camtasia, and [[Media:zmbv.rar|ZMBV]], which comes with DosBox, are good choices. [http://compression.ru/video/ls-codec/screen_capture_codec_en.html MSU SCLC] is a wonderful screen capture codec, but is incompatible with Fraps, which comes with its own servicable codec.

For archival purposes, best compression can be achieved with [http://www.compression.ru/video/ls-codec/index_en.html MSU]. [http://www.yuvsoft.com/download/lossless-codec/index.html YULS] compresses even more, but forward compatibility is not guaranteed.

---

Here is the old thread on SDA. ;) Might get out of date, but there's some good general info anyway.

[http://speeddemosarchive.com/forum/index.php/topic,3585.0.html http://speeddemosarchive.com/forum/index.php/topic,3585.0.html]

PSP

2008-08-07T22:37:37Z

Enhasa: dunno why I didn't link to MMPU before, im dumm

If you have a newer model PSP (slimmer), then you're in luck. Just record the output like you would [[Console Recording|for a console]]. Please note that you will be recording games in component.

If you have an older model PSP, then you're going to need some extra equipment. There are two options: direct and indirect recording. The direct feed method is similar to how you would record on the newer PSP or other consoles and is preferred. The downside is that it costs more and requires taking your PSP apart and thus voiding the warranty. Indirect recording is essentially a hack: a fixed, mounted camera that attaches to your PSP and records what it sees. This is admittedly much better than the typical DS solution, but it can't compete with direct recording.

For direct recording, the de facto device is the PSP2TV from Team XTender. Take a look at this [http://gear.ign.com/articles/666/666034p1.html review and guide to setting it up] and some [http://gear.ign.com/articles/652/652495p1.html more information].

Some devices for indirect recording are the Innovation PSP TV adaptor, Nyko Play On TV adaptor, PSPonTV, and so on. Chris 'Satoryu' Kirk used the Innovation adaptor for his [http://speeddemosarchive.com/MegaManPU.html Mega Man Powered Up runs], if you want to check out results.

DS

2008-08-07T22:32:50Z

Enhasa: added stuff about recording 1 or 2 screens

--Adapted from a post by Nate

With recent revelations about video quality achievable with the new DS Lite, I thought it would be a good idea to lay down guidelines for how to record video suitable for release on Speed Demos Archive. Note that the decision about whether to post video based on its quality will always be made on a case-by-case basis: following these guidelines is no guarantee that your video will be posted. However, failure to follow these guidelines will almost certainly result in rejection.

==First and foremost==
 
'''You must use a DS Lite!'''

I realize that this will be expensive for virtually everyone, but the DS Lite slaughters the old DS in terms of potential picture quality. There is no substitute for a DS Lite when recording your run. Also, remember that you can only use a camera to record DS games, not Game Boy games; you can already play those with a Game Boy Player and record like a normal GameCube game, so there is no need to use a camera. For more information on that, see [[Game Boy Capture|here]].

==Other considerations==

1) Use a good camera. We're not talking your ten year old digital camera that takes five frames per second and records to a codec available in Quicktime 1.0 here. Recording should always be done with the camera's highest quality settings (fps, frame size, etc). If possible, record using "NTSC" (not "PAL"). As Nate cannot capture video 8, hi 8 or similar formats, you will have to use DV and copy the file to your computer (PM Nate for help with that) or (if all else fails) VHS. For these reasons, digital cameras (like the kind you normally would use to take pictures of people) are preferred, the more recent and expensive the better.

2) Turn the lights off. You don't want any other lights competing with the DS's screen light (leave that on the brightest setting!) or corrupting its color.

3) Make sure the screen(s) are in focus. Unfocused (blurry) video will not be accepted. If the game you are running has gameplay in both screens (such as Contra 4), you will need to film both screens. If only one screen is used for gameplay (such as New Super Mario Bros.), only record the one that is necessary.

4) Don't move either the camera or the DS. This will interfere with cropping. Video with excessive movement will not be accepted.

5) Record the audio directly. Plug an 1/8" miniplug cable into your DS Lite's headphone port and plug the other end into your camera (if possible) or else your computer and record the audio at an acceptable level that way. Videos with audio recorded "over the air" will not be accepted.

6) Do not attempt to process the video yourself. Yank it off the camera and send it in, on CD-R or DVD-R if necessary. Videos altered in any way from how the camera made them will not be accepted. This includes attempting to integrate audio recorded separately: audio sync will be handled by SDA.

==Conclusion==

It's probably a good idea to take some test footage so that we can approve your video quality before you record an entire run, only to have it rejected. Please refer to the rules, FAQ and submission guidelines available at SDA for additional information.

I apologize for the Twin Galaxies-esque length and strictness of these regulations, but no one wants to watch crappy video. Remember that you have earned the right to be showcased to thousands of eager viewers, and your product should be superior in all aspects of production.

PSP

2008-08-06T15:40:29Z

Enhasa: whoops, forgot a line

If you have a newer model PSP (slimmer), then you're in luck. Just record the output like you would [[Console Recording|for a console]]. Please note that you will be recording games in component.

If you have an older model PSP, then you're going to need some extra equipment. There are two options: direct and indirect recording. The direct feed method is similar to how you would record on the newer PSP or other consoles and is preferred. The downside is that it costs more and requires taking your PSP apart and thus voiding the warranty. Indirect recording is essentially a hack: a fixed, mounted camera that attaches to your PSP and records what it sees. This is admittedly much better than the typical DS solution, but it can't compete with direct recording.

For direct recording, the de facto device is the PSP2TV from Team XTender. Take a look at this [http://gear.ign.com/articles/666/666034p1.html review and guide to setting it up] and some [http://gear.ign.com/articles/652/652495p1.html more information].

Some devices for indirect recording are the Innovation PSP TV adaptor, Nyko Play On TV adaptor, PSPonTV, and so on. Chris 'Satoryu' Kirk used the Innovation adaptor for his Mega Man Powered Up runs, if you want to check out results.

PSP

2008-08-06T15:37:20Z

Enhasa: added page

If you have a newer model PSP (slimmer), then you're in luck. Just record the output like you would [[Console Recording|for a console]].

If you have an older model PSP, then you're going to need some extra equipment. There are two options: direct and indirect recording. The direct feed method is similar to how you would record on the newer PSP or other consoles and is preferred. The downside is that it costs more and requires taking your PSP apart and thus voiding the warranty. Indirect recording is essentially a hack: a fixed, mounted camera that attaches to your PSP and records what it sees. This is admittedly much better than the typical DS solution, but it can't compete with direct recording.

For direct recording, the de facto device is the PSP2TV from Team XTender. Take a look at this [http://gear.ign.com/articles/666/666034p1.html review and guide to setting it up] and some [http://gear.ign.com/articles/652/652495p1.html more information].

Some devices for indirect recording are the Innovation PSP TV adaptor, Nyko Play On TV adaptor, PSPonTV, and so on. Chris 'Satoryu' Kirk used the Innovation adaptor for his Mega Man Powered Up runs, if you want to check out results.

Main Page

2008-08-06T15:06:35Z

Enhasa: added PSP section

Welcome to the [http://speeddemosarchive.com/ Speed Demos Archive] Knowledge Base. Here you will find information related to speedrunning and video capture. Also be sure to check out the [http://speeddemosarchive.com/faq.html FAQ]!

__NOTOC__
== Current Contents ==
* [[Anri-chan|Do everything for me! Automated encoding with Anri-chan]]
* [[General advice|General advice, tips & tricks]]
* [[Glossary of terms]]
* [[DF|List of dimensions and framerates]]

===Getting Started: Recording a...===
* [[Console Recording|Console game]]
* [[Digital Capture|PC game]]
* [[Game Boy Capture|Game Boy, Game Boy Color, or Game Boy Advance game]]
* [[DS|Nintendo DS game]]
* [[PSP|PSP game]]

===Media===
* [[VHS|VHS Info]]
* [[DVD|DVD Info]]
* [[Recording Medium]]
* [[Unfinalized DVD|Recovering data from unfinalized DVDs]]

===Capture===
* [[Analog Capture|Analog Capture (game consoles)]]
* [[Digital Capture|Digital Capture (PC games)]]
* [[Mac Capture]]
* [[DScaler|Using DScaler with your capture card]]

===Editing===
* [[AviSynth]]
* [[Progressive Audio Desync |Fixing Progressive Audio Desync]]
* [[Subtitles]]
* [[Audio Commentary]]
* [[Splitting / Appending]]

===Compressing===
* [[MeGUI|H.264 / AAC with MeGUI]]
* [[Xvid / MP3 with MeGUI]]
* [[Batch Encoding|H.264 / AAC / Xvid / MP3 automation with CLI and batch files]]
* [[Variable Frame Rate MP4]]

===Rules===
* [[Verification Guidelines]]
* [[Super Game Boy timing]]
* [[TAS|What is TAS?]]

===Other Pages===
* [[SMPlayer|SMPlayer: a media player recommended by SDA]]
* [[VLC in Vista]]
* [[Enabling_BitTorrent_Encryption|Enabling Encryption in BitTorrent Clients]]
* [[Video hosting services]]
* [[Famster]]
* [[Lossless Codecs Comparison]]

===Old===
* [[Recording FAQ|Old Recording FAQ (large)]]

Super Game Boy timing

2008-08-05T19:44:02Z

Enhasa: moved picture, highlighted multiplier

(originally written by Radix)

The purpose of this page is to explain what's wrong with the "Super Game Boy", an addon for the Super Nintendo that lets you play Game Boy games on TV. It's one of the ways that can be used to record speed runs of Game Boy games, but there's a serious problem with the hardware - it runs fast. What should take 1 minute, it does in about 58.6 seconds. The issue was first pointed out by carlmmii concerning my original any% run on [http://speeddemosarchive.com/Metroid2.html Metroid II]. I meant to do a test but I was lazy/busy and never did one until 4 months later after Lucid Faia's [http://speeddemosarchive.com/LinksAwakening.html Link's Awakening] run on SGB brought up the issue again.

I spent the better part of two nights researching what to settle on for the ratio. My method was based on recording music. The games I used were the two in question, Link's Awakening and Metroid II. For LA I made a new file, picked up the shield, exited Marin's house and then saved & quit. Then I got ready to load that file, and started recording as soon as I pressed A. Link stood outside, unmoving, for 10 minutes while I recorded the music. I did it again for 20 minutes for better results. In Metroid II, I used a new file and recorded the main theme while standing at the ship. I also recorded 10 minutes of sound from my actual game boy using a microphone.

A quick look in Cool Edit showed that SGB was clearly faster than GBP and GBP seemed to be the right speed compared to GB. I made this picture to show a comparison of the three waveforms. Now I just needed to settle on the ratio. I took my 20 minute recordings and began to take sample points by zooming in on the waveforms and finding the place where the music repeats. Because of the patterns in the music, they were easy to see in the waveform and hear too. I made an excel file with all the sample points and then did a bunch of calculations.

[[Image:gbComparison.png]]

'''The resulting ratio is 1.024115.''' If you record a run on SGB you can multiply your time by this number to get an idea for what your run will be listed as. You can download my [[Media:gbComparison.zip|excel file]] and look at my numbers and a few graphs if you want.

This number is supported by the MHz clock speed of Game Boy and Super Game Boy listed at [http://www.overclocked.org/emugb.htm overclocked.org].

File:GbComparison.zip

2008-08-05T19:41:04Z

Enhasa: excel files

excel files

Super Game Boy timing

2008-08-05T19:40:24Z

Enhasa: removed a dead link, added excel file zip

(originally written by Radix)

The purpose of this page is to explain what's wrong with the "Super Game Boy", an addon for the Super Nintendo that lets you play Game Boy games on TV. It's one of the ways that can be used to record speed runs of Game Boy games, but there's a serious problem with the hardware - it runs fast. What should take 1 minute, it does in about 58.6 seconds. The issue was first pointed out by carlmmii concerning my original any% run on [http://speeddemosarchive.com/Metroid2.html Metroid II]. I meant to do a test but I was lazy/busy and never did one until 4 months later after Lucid Faia's [http://speeddemosarchive.com/LinksAwakening.html Link's Awakening] run on SGB brought up the issue again.

I spent the better part of two nights researching what to settle on for the ratio. My method was based on recording music. The games I used were the two in question, Link's Awakening and Metroid II. For LA I made a new file, picked up the shield, exited Marin's house and then saved & quit. Then I got ready to load that file, and started recording as soon as I pressed A. Link stood outside, unmoving, for 10 minutes while I recorded the music. I did it again for 20 minutes for better results. In Metroid II, I used a new file and recorded the main theme while standing at the ship. I also recorded 10 minutes of sound from my actual game boy using a microphone.

[[Image:gbComparison.png]]

A quick look in Cool Edit showed that SGB was clearly faster than GBP and GBP seemed to be the right speed compared to GB. I made this picture to show a comparison of the three waveforms. Now I just needed to settle on the ratio. I took my 20 minute recordings and began to take sample points by zooming in on the waveforms and finding the place where the music repeats. Because of the patterns in the music, they were easy to see in the waveform and hear too. I made an excel file with all the sample points and then did a bunch of calculations.

The resulting ratio is 1.024115. If you record a run on SGB you can multiply your time by this number to get an idea for what your run will be listed as. You can download my [[Media:gbComparison.zip|excel file]] and look at my numbers and a few graphs if you want.

This number is supported by the MHz clock speed of Game Boy and Super Game Boy listed at [http://www.overclocked.org/emugb.htm overclocked.org].

Glossary of terms

2008-08-05T04:09:53Z

Enhasa: added FDP

These are some terms that you'll see in the Knowledge Base:

* '''2D, 3D''': For our purposes, a heuristic for the presence of blinking. It is much more likely for a 2D game than a 3D game to have F1 blinking effects. Low quality versions of such games are encoded at F3 instead of F2 so that the blinking is still apparent.
* '''AAC''', '''AVC''': Advanced Audio Codec and Advanced Video Codec. Used in MP4 movies on SDA.
* '''[[Anri-chan]]''': SDA's video encoding software.
* '''AVI''': A movie container format used by SDA. Currently used for compatibility purposes only. Contains DivX or XviD video and MP3 audio.
* '''AviSynth''': A scripting tool for editing video. Anri-chan uses it for movie production.
* '''Capture''': To record with a capture card.
* '''Codec''': A way to compress video or audio. If video was uncompressed, it would be far too massive too transmit over the Internet; thus, it is compressed with a codec. To be played back, it must be decoded with the same codec.
* '''D1, D4, etc''': Video dimensions. D1 (high resolution) in NTSC is 720x480 (DVD) or 640x480 (video file); PAL D1 is 720x576 (DVD) or 704x576 (video file). D4 (low resolution) in NTSC is 320x240; PAL is 352x288. D2 and D3 are only relevant to DVD output and are not discussed on this site.
* '''Deinterlace''': Movies on SDA use progressive scan, but most video captured from TV equipment is interlaced. Deinterlacing is the process to turn interlaced video into progressive video. If the whole video can be made by only discarding parts of the video (LQ/MQ), the process is quick. Otherwise (HQ/IQ) the video must be analysed to recreate the missing parts of the picture, which is very slow.
* '''DivX''': An older video codec. Used in AVI movies. Also see "XviD".
* '''Encode''': To compress with a codec.
* '''FAAC''': Free Advanced Audio Codec, the implementation of AAC used by SDA away from Windows.
* '''F1, F2, F3''': Video framerates. The number is the denominator of a fraction whose numerator is always 1. Thus, F1 is full framerate, F2 is half framerate, and F3 is third framerate. F1, F2 and F3 in NTSC are 59.94, 29.97 and 19.98 FPS, respectively, while in PAL they are 50, 25 and 50/3 (~16.666667) FPS, respectively.
* '''FDP''': Framerate Decimation Paradigm. See 2D, 3D.
* '''Field''': An interlaced frame contains half the picture for each of two consecutive frames of video. Each normal frame's share of the interlaced frame is called a field. If the frame has 480 rows of pixels, the first field will be rows 1,3,5,...,479 and the second field will be rows 2,4,6,...,480. To separate fields means to take each set of fields and put them in their own individual frames.
* '''Finalize''': A process done on DVD recorders that allows discs to be used on other equipment. Once you have finalized a disc, you cannot put anything else on it. The exception in DVD-RW, which you must format in order to write to once it has been finalized. Finalization must be done on the DVD recorder that recorded the disc.
* '''Frame''': Rather than using true motion, videos use frames, where slightly different images are shown rapidly to create the illusion of motion. Each image is called a frame.
* '''Framerate''': The rate at which frames are displayed. This is written as "x FPS," where x is the number of frames displayed each second.
* '''H.264''': An advanced video codec (AVC). Used in MP4 movies on SDA.
* '''HQ''': High quality. 2Mib/s video, 128Kb/s audio.
* '''IQ''': Insane quality. 5Mb/s video, up to 320Kb/s audio.
* '''Interlaced''': When a video signal comes one field at a time, it is said to be interlaced. Interlacing is used in TV video to halve the amount of bandwidth used in the video signal, while only slightly harming the viewing experience. Also see "Field".
* '''LQ''': Low quality. 128Kb/s video, 64Kb/s audio.
* '''MeGUI''': A tool used to encode video and audio.
* '''MQ''': Medium quality (same as normal quality). 512Kb/s video, 64Kb/s audio.
* '''MP3''': An audio codec. Used in AVI movies on SDA.
* '''MP4''': SDA's preferred movie container format. Contains x264 video and Nero Digital or FAAC audio.
* '''MP4Box''': A command-line application for working with MP4 files. Anri-chan uses it to mux together the video and audio, but it has a lot of uses (e.g. splitting movies into 10-minute chunks for YouTube). There is a Windows GUI for it called YAMB.
* '''mvbob''': An advanced deinterlacing filter used by Anri-chan for HQ and higher movies. "Bob" filters (including LeakKernelBob, which is a quicker filter for casual use) are required to do the video rebuilding work needed to maintain the resolution and/or the frame rate of interlaced video. Because of the complexity of the work, mvbob is by far the slowest part of the video processing.
* '''Nate''': The person who handles capturing and encoding runs for SDA, as well as many other very important tasks.
* '''ND''', '''NDA''': Nero Digital Audio, the implementation of AAC used by SDA on Windows.
* '''NMF''': New Master File. Refers to an intermediate source video file in the encoding process, usually one saved after deinterlacing (to avoid slow deinterlacing during each pass for each quality of output). To maintain the video quality of the source video, the compression (if any) is lossless, meaning the NMF has a very, very high bitrate.
* '''NQ''': Normal quality (same as medium quality).
* '''Progressive Scan''': When a video signal comes whole frames at once, it is said to be progressive scan.
* '''Transcode''': To convert from one file format to another. Similar to "Encode", except the source is usually already encoded.
* '''VirtualDub''': A Windows tool used to encode video and audio.
* '''VirtualDub Mod''': A modification to VirtualDub that is superior in some aspects but inferior in others.
* '''x264''': The implementation of H.264 used by SDA.
* '''XQ''': X-TREME quality. 10Mb/s video, up to 320Kb/s audio.
* '''Xvid''': DivX spelled backwards. Xvid is open source and generally produces better quality video than DivX while remaining 100% compatible. Used in AVI movies on SDA.

Subtitles

2008-08-05T04:05:26Z

Enhasa: removed one sentence since we can take external subtitles (although it probably won't happen)

==Introduction==

In addition to regular commentary shown on the game's html page, SDA will allow author commentary in the form of subtitles for videos encoded with H.264/AAC in the mp4 container, since subtitle files can be placed inside and turned on or off while playing the video.

 
==Playback==

Note: Quicktime will not play subtitles in the format explained in this guide. There is a way to make QT7 compatible subtitles, so feel free to [http://www.google.com Google it]. Perhaps this guide will cover it in the future, but I doubt it since we don't care that much about Quicktime... well, at least for subtitles that is.

[http://www.videolan.org/vlc/ VLC Media Player], recommended by SDA, will play videos with properly configured subtiles just fine. The subtitle track is turned off by default and can be turned on by clicking on Video -> Subtitles Track -> Track 1.

If you want to load an external subtitle file with VLC, start the program and go to File -> Open File and select both video and subtitle.

For any other media player that can't play the subtitles directly, you can install [http://www.videohelp.com/tools?tool=VSFilter_DirectVobSub DirectVobSub], which will detect the subtitle file. It will also detect external subtitles if you give the file the same name as your video, e.g. sws_part01.mp4/avi and sws_part01.srt. The subtitle track will be turned on by default, and can be turned off by right-clicking the vobsub icon in your system tray (bottom right) and selecting hide.

 

==Creating the subtitles==

The SubRip format (.srt) is simple. It consists of a subtitle number, start and end times, the text which can be on more than one line, and a blank line. Here is an example:

<pre><nowiki>
1
00:00:01,000 --> 00:00:06,000
Hello. My name is Inigo Montoya.
You killed my father. Prepare to die.

2
00:00:06,000 --> 00:00:09,000
Stop saying that!
</nowiki></pre>

You may find it easier to create subtitles with [http://www.videohelp.com/tools?tool=Subtitle_Workshop Subtitle Workshop]. You should be able to open the video inside the program so you can see when to place the subtitles.

 

==Multiplexing==

You can mux the subtitles during [[MeGUI#Combining_the_finished_video_and_audio_files | this step]] of the MeGUI guide.

Return to the [[Main Page|front page]].

Analog Capture

2008-08-05T03:56:45Z

Enhasa: added note that this is somewhat outdated

'''NOTE: Parts of this page are now outdated (such as the All-In-Wonder, VHS transfer, etc). For an alternate means of capturing to your hard drive, check out the [[DScaler]] page.'''

==Acquiring Equipment==

First of all, if you don't have access to a computer running Windows, and are instead using a Mac, check out the [[Mac Capture]] page.

Otherwise, I recommend the [http://www.ati.com/products/radeon9600/aiw9600/index.html ATI All-In-Wonder 9600]. If you decide to record your run on VHS and let me capture, that is the card I will use. The American version supports every video standard I've ever heard of and captures in brilliant color, with full brightness transfer and virtually no dropped frames. It also captures full framerate ready video. Coming from inferior capture devices, I literally can not say enough good things about this card, so you will have to trust me that it is the best on the market.

Be sure to download and install the most recent drivers for the card (once you have it installed) from the [http://www.ati.com/ ATI site], since you never know what might happen to your video (in terms of quality) if you use old drivers.

==Acquiring Software==

The software I recommend for capture and editing is called [http://www.virtualdub.org/ VirtualDub]. It is freeware, which means you are not expected to pay for it. If you like VirtualDub, though, you should donate a few bucks to the man who wrote it, like I did.

VirtualDub comes as a .zip file. This means you will need a program to unzip it into its own directory. I recommend [http://www.win-rar.com/ WinRAR], because it allows you to simply right click on the VirtualDub .zip file and select "Extract to VirtualDub-(version number)". This is the most efficient way I've seen to unzip things in Windows, because you don't have to open a program or make your own directory for VirtualDub. No further installation is required.

==Acquiring Codecs==

Once you have VirtualDub and the associated software ready to go, go ahead and download the codecs you will need. You will be using [http://neuron2.net/www.math.berkeley.edu/benrg/huffyuv.html Huffyuv] (pronounced "Huff Why You Vee," in case you're interested) as your codec when you capture. Huffyuv is also freeware. I also mirror [http://www.metroid2002.com/files/huffyuv-2.1.1.zip version 2.1.1 of Huffyuv here at SDA.].

Huffyuv also comes as a .zip. Do the same thing you did for VirtualDub, only this time you will need to open the Huffyuv folder, right click on the huffyuv.inf file and click "Install" in the menu that appears. This will install Huffyuv for you.

You don't need an input audio codec; you will just capture raw audio data without compression.

For an output audio codec, I use [http://www.metroid2002.com/files/lameACM-20020202.zip version 0.8.0 of the LAME ACM]. This codec is a freeware MP3 encoder, maybe the best in the world. Be sure to only use the version I host here (0.8.0) - other versions have been proven to cause serious sound desynching issues. Once you've downloaded and unzipped the file, right click on the LameACM.inf file and click "Install" to install the codec, similarly to how you installed Huffyuv. You can visit [http://mp3dev.org LAME's homepage] to learn more about the codec, but the LAME ACM is not available there. I've decided to host it myself because it's a bit hard to find on the Internet, and because you could easily get an older version of the codec on accident.

==Capturing Video==

Once all three codecs are installed, it's time to open VirtualDub for the first time. Double-click on the VirtualDub.exe application to open it. You are presented with VirtualDub's Dub Mode, where you apply filters to video and audio and export data to a new file. You're not ready to use this mode yet, since you still need to capture your run.

==Getting Started (Capturing)==

Start by hooking your VCR up to your capture card. You will probably need to use the red or black (right channel) and white (left channel) audio cables, as well as the yellow (composite video) cable. If your VCR has an S-Video output, by all means hook up your VCR using S-Video (instead of by the yellow Composite cable), though inexpensive VCRs seldom have such outputs. Press Play on the VCR or on the VCR's remote to start playing your run. You will want to have some video playing to make adjustments to the capture software before you rewind the tape and start to capture it for real.

Select "Capture AVI..." from the File menu. If all goes well, you should be blasted with a large amount of audio static and a window full of snow. If you see your run already, fine; you can skip the next step.

==Setting Settings==

If you see snow, you need to tell your capture card to select the Composite or S-Video source, whichever you hooked your VCR up with. Select Source from the Video menu, select Video Composite or S-Video from the "Select a Video Source:" dropdown menu, and then hit OK. If you have a card other than the ATI All-In-Wonder 9600, this process may be different for you. Consult your card's documentation.

Once you see your run playing on your computer, it's time to set up your capture settings. Start with the three buttons in the lower right hand corner of the VirtualDub Capture Mode window. You need to click on the first button (starting at the left) and set it to 44.1 KHz, 16-bit stereo. (If you only plugged in a white cable since your VCR doesn't have stereo sound, select "mono" instead of "stereo".)

For the second button, choose 29.97 fps (if you're capturing NTSC video) or 25.00 fps (if you're capturing a PAL or SECAM video). If you are in the US or in Japan, you are most likely using NTSC. If you are in Europe, Australia or elsewhere, you are most likely using either PAL or SECAM (remember to select 30.00 fps instead of 25.00 fps if you used 60 Hz equipment to play and record your run; just don't worry about this if you don't know what that means). The third button is a display of how much bandwidth you need to write the data to the drive. There's no need to do anything with it.

Next, choose Format from the Video menu. This shows the resolution you will be capturing at. If you are capturing NTSC, select 640 x 480. If you are capturing PAL or SECAM, select 704 x 576. This resolution will help you keep the image dimensions correct on the computer, so that the game isn't distorted (compared to watching it on a TV screen). Your capture will also be ready to be transformed into a full framerate video. Hit OK to close out of the Format window.

After setting your resolution, select Compression from the Video menu. You should see the Huffyuv codec in the left part of the window. Select it and hit OK. Huffyuv will compress the video you are capturing by a factor of 2 or more without changing what you see at all. It is said to be the only non-lossy video compression codec in the world because of this. There's no need to set the audio compression now; you will do that later, after you've captured.

Finally, set where you will capture by going to the File menu and selecting "Set capture file...". You should use your largest available hard drive, or else just save as "capture.avi" or something on your Desktop for easy access. This is the file VirtualDub will capture to. Make sure that the file doesn't already exist, or it will be overwritten when you start to capture.

Now go to the Capture menu and select "Preferences...". Select all of the boxes before the word "Save"; there should be four of them. Then hit OK. This will save all of your settings (EXCEPT for the very first setting, the source setting on your capture card) so that you don't have to reset them the next time you capture something.

==Capturing==

With all of your settings set, you're ready to capture. Press F6 to start VirtualDub capturing, then press Play on your VCR (assuming you're already in the right place on the tape). You should see your run start on the monitor. Keep an eye on the "Frames dropped" indicator on the right side of the VirtualDub Capture Mode window. You should stop dropping frames almost entirely once the picture clears up (after a couple seconds). If not, then there may be a problem with your CPU speed, with your hard drive speed, with your capture settings, or with your capture card. Try to use the other readouts on the right side of the window to diagnose the problem.

Beware of digital autotracking indicators. On many newer VCRs, annoying displays of the autotracking (or the time position) may cover your run. If this happens, press Rewind without stopping the tape (even though I say not to in the VHS section) and back up to just before your segment starts. If you press Play at the right time, the tape will start without trying to set the tracking again and the audio read head will sync before your segment starts. If head resynching happens too late and the video is distorted or audio is cut out, try pressing Rewind again to move further back. If you can't avoid losing some of your run due to VHS, try to remember to start recording longer before you start playing next time. Also keep in mind that every time you press Rewind or Fast Forward while your tape is playing, you risk damage to the tape.

When you are done capturing, press Escape to tell VirtualDub to stop. Then select "Exit capture mode" from the File menu. You are now ready to start editing your newly captured run!

Return to the [[Main Page|front page]].

VHS

2008-08-05T03:47:40Z

Enhasa: updated for death of VHS

'''NOTE: Nate will no longer capture VHS tapes. It is strongly recommended that you use a [[DVD|DVD recorder]] instead.'''

==Overview==

The most basic way to record a console run is to tape it with a VCR. The other option is to record it with a DVD recorder. A DVD recorder presents vastly superior quality. See above note (in red).

==Acquiring the Machine==

To start out with, consider buying a new VCR. You won't need to pay more than $50 in the US at the time of this writing, and you will get a guaranteed standard of quality for the first couple of tapes you record. After that, the cheap VCR will start to degrade, giving you poorer and poorer picture quality, and it may start to eat tapes, etc.

If you already have a trusty old VCR (probably from the early 90s or older) that you know won't let you down, you should go ahead and buy a cleaning tape from your local drug store and use it several times. Old VCRs are usually more dependable than newer ones, but you should still make sure that grime hasn't built up on the VCR's heads over the years. Nothing can stop such buildup (except not using the VCR, obviously), so you should just accept that you will not achieve full quality without coughing up a few bucks to clean the VCR.

==Acquiring the Media==

Once your VCR is trusted and ready to go, it's time to consider your options in buying tapes. Originally there were no such things as 'high quality' tapes - all VHS tapes were created equal. Unfortunately, people are greedy little piggies, and you now have to choose between crap and crappier crap.

Over the years, in order to save money, the tape manufacturers started putting less and less metal into the tapes (the stuff that actually records the video signal on the tape). That means that the VHS medium has actually gone down in quality since its birth in the late 1970s, especially if you buy the lowest grade tapes (usually labeled 'high grade' to confuse you). The existing quality of tapes were relabeled as 'super high definition' or 'super high grade.' These tapes are sometimes hard to find, but in my opinion, the increase in quality you get from these tapes makes them worth their price (usually about three times the price of a low quality 'high grade' tape). This also means that usually, the more you pay for your tapes, the better. Sorry, folks, but please remain calm and don't shoot the messenger.

==Tape Length==

You should also be aware that the longer tapes (longer than the standard T-120 length, which records two hours on SP speed) have thinner tape inside them and are not well suited to recording anything you want other people to watch (such as your Speed Run). These thinner tapes are virtually standard in Europe, so you are probably out of luck if you live there.

==Tape Stickage==

And don't even think for a second that the fun stops when you bring your new tapes home. Those suckers can't be trusted yet. They may have been in the back of an unair-conditioned truck in a hot part of the world, and the tape inside may be more or less stuck to itself. That means that if you try to record on the tape for the first time, the tape inside will be randomly catching and snapping off of itself, resulting in a badly distorted picture until the VCR's heads reestablish good positions on the tape. Speaking from personal experience, it always seems to ruin the picture in the most critical moments, such as when Ripley first encounters the Alien Queen in Aliens (1986) on my friend's taped-from-TV copy of the movie.

Don't let a sticky tape ruin your run. Simply insert the tape into your VCR and press Fast Forward to quickly move to the end of the tape, then press Rewind when you're there to come back to the beginning (if your VCR doesn't do it for you). This process effectively "takes the fall for you," or gets out all of the tape stickage before you actually record. Obviously you will need to repeat this if the tape gets hot for some reason. It shouldn't harm the tape and should prevent almost all picture breakup due to sticky tape.

==Tape Speed==

You next need to make a choice about tape speed/quality. VHS has the ability to be recorded and played back at three different speeds. The faster the tape goes by the write heads, the better quality you get. The VHS speeds are (on a T-120 tape):

SP (Short Play): 2 Hours (Acceptable Quality)
LP (Long Play) : 4 Hours (Poor Quality)
EP (Extra Play): 6 Hours (This Is Supposed To Be My Run? Quality)

Sony sometimes calls EP "SLP (Super Long Play)" due to their different history with VCRs. I sometimes call SLP "Super Lousy Play." You should ALWAYS use SP to record your run. If you want to record a run that's longer than two hours, just pause the game and swap tapes whenever is convenient. Try to leave at least 20 seconds of pause before and after the swap, it won't count for the time.

Set the tape speed by pressing the appropriate button on your VCR's remote (or, if you're lucky, on the VCR itself). Be sure that the tape speed is set correctly every time you sit down to work on your run, since some VCRs may not remember how you set the speed, or someone else may have been using the VCR. You do not want to change speeds in the middle of a run. Just trust me on this.

==Planning for the Future==

When you start recording your run, you should press Play on your VCR and wait for about thirty seconds, then press Stop. Putting a thirty second leader at the start of your tape will ensure that the VCR is not having trouble turning a really light reel of tape against a really heavy reel of tape. Picture distortion can result from the VCR not being able to turn the reels evenly. (You also might see this at the end of your tapes if you record on the very end of them.) Doing this can also be of help if you want to use the tape for something else later, since you won't have anything you can't tape over at the beginning of the tape. You don't need to do this at the start of every segment if you're recording a multisegment run -- only at the beginning of the tape.

You should also become familiar with how long it takes your VCR to start recording after you press the Record button. Older VCRs can take quite a long time to actually start recording to the tape after you press record, often ten seconds or more. You can test this by pressing Record, then immediately starting to play a game. After about half a minute, stop the tape, rewind, and take a look at how much of what you were doing didn't make it onto the tape. If a lot seems to be missing, you know you will need to give the VCR a long time after you've pressed Record to start playing.

Also, beware of ejecting the tape. Older VCRs especially tend to aggressively back up when a tape is inserted. If you're right at the end of a segment and you eject the tape and later put it back in, you could erase the end of your previous segment the next time you record. Make sure to always position the tape after the end of each segment every time you insert it. Due to the way 4-head VCRs work, you might erase part of your run even if you're right at the end of your previous segment. For this and other reasons, try to give each segment at least a five second leader of tape.

Think that's all?

==Tape Degradation==

Think again. VHS is an ancient, analog technology, and as such, your tapes were in their best condition before they came out of their boxes. Each and every time you play a tape, it degrades, meaning that you should avoid playing the same section of tape over and over. This is a real, tangible problem even with the most recent VCRs.

Luckily, though, the solution to this is easy: simply never rewind the tape. If you make a mistake and need to abort your run, reset your game system and keep playing; don't touch the VCR. You should only rewind the tape if you want to try again later. That way, the number of times the tape is played will be limited to the number of sessions you devote to that particular part of the game. Feel free to make sure your run is in good condition by watching the tape before you send it to me to be captured, but do not play the tape more than once after you're finished. Fast forwarding and rewinding the tape while it is playing (so that you see black and white horizontal bars over the picture of you playing) is especially damaging to the tape. You can instantly destroy ten seconds of video or more by pressing the Rewind button while the tape is playing, especially with old VCRs, so do yourself a favor and only fast forward or rewind the tape when it's not playing (first press Stop, then Fast Forward or Rewind).

Note that you can and should make a backup copy of your run before you send it to me to be captured. However, you should send the original tape(s) to me, not the backup. The original recordings will provide far better quality than the backups, and because thousands of people will be watching what I capture, you want to put your best foot forward and send me the best quality version of your run.

==Write Protecting the Tape==

When you're 100% sure you're done recording onto the tape, remove the small plastic tab found to the left of the side label area (see the below section for more on that). You should be able to reach into the tab with a fingernail and pry it out, then break it completely off. With this tab removed you will not be able to accidentally record over your run (don't laugh - it's happened many times, and it could easily happen to you). This is especially important with VHS, since accidentally pressing Record for one second will probably result in ten or more seconds of ruined video.

==Labeling the Tape==

When it comes time to label the tape, there are some considerations to be made. The proper way to label a tape is usually obvious because of the indentations in the plastic of the tape's case, but I will explain in more detail, since there is a danger of touching the tape and damaging it if you try to label it incorrectly.

If you hold the tape up so that the long side of the tape with the mechanical door and the tape inside of it is facing up, you will want to label the bottom side (not the side with the tape) with one of the long labels found in the box. You can optionally also label the top of the tape (between the two reels on the side with the appropriate indentation).

When you insert the tape into the box, be sure to insert it with the label side facing out. This guarantees that people trying to get the tape out of the box won't accidentally touch the tape and damage it. It also makes it so you can read the label (if the tape has been correctly labeled, anyway).

When you're done with your run, [http://speeddemosarchive.com/submit.html contact Radix] for information about what to do and about where to send your run. If you live in the US, be sure to ask for "Media Mail" from the US Postal Service, because it will save you a ton of money on shipping.

I strongly recommend that you send your run to me if you recorded it using VHS, because I have invested heavily in professional grade VHS equipment and capture technology to make sure runs submitted on VHS look as good as they possibly can. Trying to capture your run yourself will almost certainly be a waste of time (yours and ours) and money.

Return to the [[Main Page|front page]].

Game Boy Capture

2008-08-05T03:46:15Z

Enhasa: updated link

In order to record videos of games for the Game Boy, Game Boy Color, or Game Boy Advance, use the Game Boy Player addon for the GameCube. Make sure that the screen fliter is set to "Sharp" and that the screen size is set to normal. Failure to do this will result in rejection of your run. After you have that set up, just record as you would a normal GameCube game. See [[Console Recording|here]] for more information on this. You can also use the Super Game Boy addon for the SNES, but it runs slightly faster than an actual Game Boy, so your time will be [[Super Game Boy timing|multiplied by 1.024115]].

Return to the [[Main Page|front page]].

Console Recording

2008-08-05T03:43:42Z

Enhasa: updated for death of VHS

Capturing a console run is basically like taping a normal television show. However, SDA has higher standards for run quality than some guy making sure he doesn't miss the latest episode of Survivor. In order to make sure your video quality is the best it can be, it's important to be careful.

==Video Cables==
The first step in a speed run's journey from your console to our servers is the AV out cable. There are generally two cables you plug into your console: the power cord and the AV out cable. There are five different kinds of AV out cables that consoles can use, and choosing the best one can have a dramatic effect on your video quality. Note, however, that while there are five different kinds of video out cables, three of them (composite, S-Video, and component) use the exact same audio. RF and SCART have their own audio.

Note that you really need two cables here (except for component, which often requires an unconventional setup): one from your console to your DVD recorder, and one from that to your TV (sometimes the signal is split after it comes out of the console, especially when using DVD recorders). It doesn't actually matter what the second plug is as far as your run quality goes, since that cable is only so that you can see what the heck you're doing on the TV screen. Obviously, it might be nice for you to have a good quality cable here too for your own sake, even when you're not speedrunning, but it's not nearly as crucial.

In order, from worst to best, they are:

===RF===
An RF cable ends in a box with a cord sticking out. You plug the cord sticking out into the back of your TV, where you would normally plug in your cable TV hookup. It's basically the exact same as the cable a cable TV signal comes through. To continue watching cable TV, you would also plug the cable TV hookup into the box. Games are displayed in place of channel 3 or 4 whenever the console is turned on.

RF is an ancient, ancient technology. It is pretty much worthless, and will shoot your run quality to hell. Do not use it if at all possible. Very few systems offer only RF output. The ones known by the authors are:
* NES II (A late-model redesign released in the final days of the NES and is easily identifiable by its top-loading cartridge slot and SNES-style controllers.)
* Sega Master System II (A cheaper version of the Sega Master System which cut several features to lower the price such as the card slot, expansion port, composite output and the reset button.)
* NEC TurboGrafx-16 (American version of Japanese PC Engine)

For the SMS II, there's still hope if you feel like cracking open your console: [http://web.archive.org/web/20051105075308/http://www.mikeg2.freeserve.co.uk/masterful/rgb.html SMS II RGB Mod]

For the TG-16, there are a few options. Purchasing a Turbo Booster or Turbo Booster Plus, or using the CD peripheral, will allow composite output. It is also possible to re-wire the system for RGB.

http://www.gamesx.com/rgbadd/rgbturbo.htm

Adding better video output to an old console is acceptable to SDA: [http://speeddemosarchive.com/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=other;action=display;num=1159914552;start=0#0 What Nate had to say]

===Composite===
[[Image:Composite.jpg|frame|right|The "out" end of a composite cable (yellow cable).]]
A composite cable ends in three colored RCA plugs - a yellow one, a red one, and a white one. These are plugged into three color coded ports on the back of your DVD recorder. The yellow plug carries the video signal, while the white and red plugs carry the left and right audio channels, respectively.

While not nearly as horrible as RF, composite video is still fairly lame next to S-Video. However, since S-Video is a newer technology, not all earlier consoles support it. More details in the next section.

===S-Video===
[[Image:SVideo.jpg|frame|right|The S in the S-Video cable.]]
The S-Video cable looks very much like a composite cable. However, in addition to the three RCA plugs, there is also one much larger metal plug. This plug is the S-Video plug, which carries what was once the best video signal available. The audio is still transmitted via the white and red cables.

Note that BOTH the yellow plug and S-Video plug carry the video signal. Only the S-Video plug carries the superior quality signal; the yellow plug carries a composite signal so that the cable can work with older TVs. If both are plugged in, the S-Video signal will be shown. (It's quite instructive to plug all of them in, and then take out and put in the S-Video plug. It's a side by side comparison!) Note that, depending on how your cable is made, you might be able to plug the S-Video and composite cables into two different appliances and have both receive a signal. This is a cheap yet effective method of eliminating [[DVD#Lag|video lag]].

[[Image:Composite_versus_s-video.jpg|frame|left|Composite (top) versus S-Video (bottom)]]The GameCube, PS2, XBOX, and Dreamcast all support S-Video, as will all consoles newer than those. In addition, thanks to the fact that Nintendo has used the same AV port for a decade, the SNES and Nintendo 64 can use S-Video cables designed for the GameCube. The Wii port has broken the trend; more on that later.

PS1 and PS2 S-Video cables are compatible with each other as well. Finally, the Sega Saturn also has support for S-Video. Other consoles do NOT have S-Video cables; therefore, composite cables offer the best quality available for these systems.

The Wii currently does not have an official S-Video cable in American stores. It has component cables and composite cables, but not S-Video. There are third party S-Video cables out there, and you might be able to import S-Video cables.

===Component (also known as RGB, YPbPr or YCbCr)===
[[Image:Component.jpg|frame|right|Component cables (yes, you need to plug in all of them just for video)]]

Component is the newest and best kind of video cable on the market. Unlike S-Video, it can not be plugged into an older input jack, even at a loss of quality. Only some DVD recorders have component input jacks. Note that S-Video is recommended by SDA; component isn't THAT much better. However, if you can record component, you should definitely do so.

Component cables are supported by all three of the so-called next gen consoles (the 360, PS3, and Wii).

===SCART (also known as Péritel or Euroconnector)===
[[Image:SCART.jpg|thumb|right|SCART - possibly the ugliest, hardest to plug cable in existence, but it does the job soooo well...]]

SCART is a audio/video standard commonly used in Europe. It is capable of transmitting RGB, YPbPr or S-Video video signals - which is used depends on the cable and equipment. Thus SCART is a component cable - strictly speaking component refers to any video split into more than one part, so even S-Video is "component" - but the name Component is typically used for the red, green and blue set of plugs.

Most equipment, including recorders and consoles, in Europe can use SCART, so it should typically be considered ahead of other cable types for older consoles such as RF and Composite.

==Recording Equipment==
SDA previously accepted [[VHS]], but now requires [[DVD]].

==Console-specific Information==

===Nintendo Gamecube===
It is possible to use component cables with the GameCube, but there are two major problems. First of all, the official cables were discontinued, long before the Wii in fact. Second, the actual port on the GameCube to plug the component cables in is only present on early batches of GameCubes. Later models had the port removed in a cost-saving measure, since very few people used them anyway. If you have two video plugs on the back of your 'Cube, you have the early model. The second port will be labeled "Digital AV Out."

===Sega Megadrive/Genesis===
The video ports at the back of the Megadrive consoles output only monaural audio. To get stereo audio, with Composite video you can plug a "jack" cable (3.5mm to 2 x RCA) into the front audio port and use that for audio instead of the normal red and white RCA plugs. SCART requires a modified cable that includes an extra cable to plug into the front audio port.

===Sega Game Gear===
The Game Gear doesn't have video output by default. There are [http://disgruntleddesigner.com/chrisc/segahacking/ggrgb.html details on modifying the GG to support video-out] but it's fairly complicated. If possible, find a Master System version of the game in question.

DF

2008-08-05T03:07:08Z

Enhasa: rearranged some of the games to match game list fixes

Note: All games played on the Game Boy Player are D4 F1 2D

If you're interested in what these D and F values actually mean, you can check out the [[Glossary of Terms]].

<table>
<tr><th align="left">Game</th><th align="left">D</th><th align="left">F</th><th align="left">nD</th></tr>
<tr><td>.hack//Infection Part 1 for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>ActRaiser for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Adventures of Batman & Robin for Genesis</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Adventures of Bayou Billy, The for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Adventures of Lolo II for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Adventures of Lolo III for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Agent Under Fire, James Bond 007 in for GCN/PS2/Xbox</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Alex Kidd in Miracle World for Sega Master System</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Alien Soldier for Genesis</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Alien vs. Predator for Jaguar</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Arc The Lad for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Area 51 for Xbox</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Banjo-Kazooie for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Banjo-Tooie for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Batman for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Battletoads for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Beavis and Butthead for Genesis</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Beyond Good & Evil for GCN/PS2/Xbox</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Bionic Commando for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Blast Corps for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Blaster Master for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Bloody Roar: Primal Fury for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Body Harvest for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Bomberman 64 for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Bomberman Hero for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Bouncer, The for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Brave Fencer Musashi for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Castlequest for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Castlevania for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Castlevania for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Castlevania: Curse of Darkness for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Castlevania: Lament of Innocence for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Castlevania: Symphony of the Night for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Castlevania II: Simon's Quest for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Castlevania III: Dracula's Curse for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Chameleon Twist for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Chip 'n Dale: Rescue Rangers for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Chrono Cross for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Chrono Trigger for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Comix Zone for Genesis</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Condemned: Criminal Origins for Xbox 360</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Conker's Bad Fur Day for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Contra for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Contra III: The Alien Wars for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Contra: Hard Corps for Genesis</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Contra: Shattered Soldier for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Crash Bandicoot 2 for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Crash Bandicoot 3: Warped for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Crazy Taxi for DC/PS2/Xbox/GCN/PC</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Crystalis for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Cybernoid: The Fighting Machine for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Dark Castle for Genesis</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Deadly Towers for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Dead Rising for Xbox 360</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Devil May Cry for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Devil May Cry 3 for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Diddy Kong Racing for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Disney's Aladdin for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Donkey Kong for Game Boy</td><td>N/A</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Donkey Kong Country for SNES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Donkey Kong Country 2: Diddy's Kong Quest for SNES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Donkey Kong Country 3: Dixie Kong's Double Trouble for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Donkey Kong 64 for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Donkey Konga for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Dr. Mario 64 for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Duck Tales for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Duck Tales 2 for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Dynamite Headdy for Genesis</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Ecco the Dolphin for Genesis</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Enter The Matrix for PS2/Xbox/GCN/PC</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Eternal Darkness: Sanity's Requiem for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Faxanadu for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Felix the Cat for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Ferrari F355 Challenge for DC/PS2</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Final Fantasy II for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Final Fantasy III for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Final Fantasy V for SNES/PSX</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Final Fantasy VIII for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Final Fantasy IX for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Final Fantasy X-2 for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Final Fantasy Mystic Quest for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Final Fantasy Tactics for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Fire Emblem: Path of Radiance for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Fire Emblem: Radiant Dawn for Wii</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>F-Zero X for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Gauntlet for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Ghosts 'n Goblins for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>God of War for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>GoldenEye 007 for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Grand Theft Auto III for PS2/PC</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Grand Theft Auto: Vice City for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Grand Theft Auto IV for PS3/360</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Goof Troop for SNES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Guardian Heroes for Saturn</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Guardian Legend, The for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Gun for GCN/PS2/Xbox/PC</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Gunstar Heroes for Genesis</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Halo: Combat Evolved for Xbox</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>HyperZone for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Ico for PlayStation 2</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Ironsword: Wizards & Warriors 2 for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Jade Empire for Xbox</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Jak and Daxter: The Precursor Legacy for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Jak II for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Jaws for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Jet Force Gemini for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Jurassic Park for Genesis</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Katamari Damacy for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Kid Icarus for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Killer7 for PS2/GCN</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Kingdom Hearts II for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Kirby's Adventure for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Kirby 64: The Crystal Shards for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Kirby Super Star for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Legacy of Kain: Soul Reaver for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Legend of Mana for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Little Nemo: The Dream Master for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Lone Ranger, The for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Lord Of The Rings: Return Of The King, The for PS2/Xbox/GCN/PC</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Lufia & the Fortress of Doom for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Luigi's Mansion for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Lunar: The Silver Star for Sega CD</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Magic of Scheherazade, The for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Manhunt 2 for Wii</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Marble Madness for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mario Kart 64 for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mario Kart: Double Dash!! for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mario Kart Wii for Wii</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mario Party 2 for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mario Party 4 for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mario Strikers Charged for Wii</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mega Man: Dr. Wily's Revenge for Game Boy</td><td>N/A</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mega Man for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mega Man 2 for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mega Man 3 for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mega Man 4 for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mega Man 5 for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mega Man 7 for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mega Man 8 for PSX/Sat</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mega Man II for Game Boy</td><td>N/A</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mega Man Legends for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mega Man Maverick Hunter X for PlayStation Portable</td><td>N/A</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mega Man Powered Up for PlayStation Portable</td><td>N/A</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mega Man: The Power Battle for GCN/PS2/Xbox</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mega Man 2: The Power Fighters for GCN/PS2/Xbox</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mega Man X for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mega Man X2 for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mega Man X3 for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mega Man X4 for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mega Man X5 for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mega Man X6 for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mega Man X7 for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mega Man X8 for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mega Man X: Command Mission for PS2/GCN</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Metal Gear Solid for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Metal Gear Solid 2: Sons of Liberty for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Metal Gear Solid 2: Substance for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Metal Gear Solid 3: Snake Eater for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Metal Slug for PSX/Wii</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Metal Slug 3 for PS2/Xbox/Wii</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Metal Slug 4 for PS2/Xbox/Wii</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Metal Slug 5 for PS2/Xbox/Wii</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Metal Slug X for PSX/Wii</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Metroid for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Metroid II: Return of Samus for Game Boy</td><td>N/A</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Metroid Prime for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Metroid Prime 2: Echoes for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Metroid Prime 3: Corruption for Wii</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mickey Mouse: Land of Illusion for Sega Master System</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mischief Makers for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mission: Impossible for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mission Impossible for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mortal Kombat Mythologies: Sub-Zero for PSX/NM64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mortal Kombat: Shaolin Monks for PS2/Xbox</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Mystical Ninja Starring Goemon for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Ninja Gaiden for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Ninja Gaiden II: The Dark Sword of Chaos for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Ninja Gaiden III: The Ancient Ship of Doom for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Ninja Gaiden Black for Xbox</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Out of this World for SNES/Genesis/PC</td><td>D4</td><td>F3</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Pac-Man 2: The New Adventures for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Paper Mario for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Paper Mario: The Thousand-Year Door for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Parasite Eve 2 for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Perfect Dark for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F3</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Phantasy Star Online for Dreamcast</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Phantasy Star Online 3 for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Pikmin for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Pikmin 2 for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Pitfall: The Mayan Adventure for Genesis/SNES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Pokémon Colosseum for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Pokémon Red/Blue for Game Boy</td><td>N/A</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Pokémon Yellow for Game Boy</td><td>N/A</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Pokémon Gold/Silver for GB/GBC</td><td>N/A</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Predator 2 for Genesis</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Prince of Persia: The Sands of Time for GCN/PS2/Xbox</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Prince of Persia: The Two Thrones for GCN/PS2/Xbox</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Prince of Persia: Warrior Within for GCN/PS2/Xbox</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Quackshot for Genesis</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Quest 64 for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Ratchet & Clank: Up Your Arsenal for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Rayman: Raving Rabbids for Wii</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Ren & Stimpy: Stimpy's Invention for Genesis</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Resident Evil for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Resident Evil for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Resident Evil 0 for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Resident Evil 2 for PSX/N64</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Resident Evil 3: Nemesis for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Resident Evil 4 for GCN/WII</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Resident Evil: Survivor for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Revenge of Shinobi for Genesis</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Road Runner's Death Valley Rally for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Rogue Galaxy for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Rogue Squadron, Star Wars for Nintendo 64 (no Expansion Pak)</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Rogue Squadron, Star Wars for PC/Nintendo 64 (Expansion Pak)</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Rogue Squadron II: Rogue Leader, Star Wars for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Rogue Squadron III: Rebel Strike, Star Wars for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Rush 'n Attack for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Rygar for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Secret of Mana for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Serious Sam: Next Encounter for PS2/Xbox/GCN</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Shadow Man for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Shadow of the Colossus for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Shinobi for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Shinobi III: Return of the Ninja Master for Genesis</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Silent Hill for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Silent Hill 2 for PS2/PC/Xbox</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Silent Hill 3 for PS2/PC</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Simpsons: Hit And Run, The for PS2/Xbox/GCN/PC</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Simpsons: Road Rage, The for PS2/Xbox/GCN</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Sly Cooper and the Thievius Raccoonus for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Solstice for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Sonic Adventure for DC</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Sonic Adventure DX for GCN/PC</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Sonic Adventure 2 (Battle) for DC/GCN</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Sonic the Hedgehog for Genesis</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Sonic the Hedgehog 2 for Genesis</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Sonic 3 & Knuckles for Genesis</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Soul Calibur 2 for PS2/Xbox/GCN</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Splinter Cell, Tom Clancy's for GCN/PS2/Xbox/PC</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Spyro: Year of the Dragon for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Star Fox for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F3</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Star Fox 64 for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Star Fox Adventures for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Star Fox: Assault for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Star Ocean: Till the End of Time for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Strider for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Super Mario 64 for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Super Mario All-Stars for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Super Mario Bros. for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Super Mario Bros. 2 for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Super Mario Bros. 3 for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Super Mario Galaxy for Wii</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Super Mario Land for Game Boy</td><td>N/A</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Super Mario Land 2: 6 Golden Coins for Game Boy</td><td>N/A</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Super Mario RPG: Legend of the Seven Stars for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Super Mario Sunshine for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Super Mario World for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Super Mario World 2: Yoshi's Island for SNES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Super Metroid for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Super Monkey Ball for PS2/Xbox/GCN</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Super Monkey Ball: Banana Blitz for Wii</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Super Smash Bros. Brawl for Wii</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Super Smash Bros. Melee for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Syphon Filter for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Tales of Symphonia for GCN/PS2</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles II: The Arcade Game for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles IV: Turtles in Time for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Terranigma for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>TimeSplitters 2 for PS2/Xbox/GCN</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>ToeJam & Earl in Panic on Funkotron for Genesis</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Tomb Raider for PSX/PC</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Tomb Raider II for PSX/PC</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Tomb Raider III for PSX/PC</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Tony Hawk's Pro Skater 3 for Xbox/N64/PS2/GCN/PC</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Tony Hawk's Underground for PS2/Xbox/GCN/PC</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Tony Hawk's Underground 2 for PS2/Xbox/GCN/PC</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Toy Story for SNES/Genesis</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Trauma Center: New Blood for Wii</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Trauma Center: Second Opinion for Wii</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>True Crime: Streets of LA for PS2/Xbox/GCN/PC</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Turok: Dinosaur Hunter for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Turok 2: Seeds of Evil for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Ufouria for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Universal Studios Theme Park Adventure for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Valkyrie Profile for PlayStation</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Valkyrie Profile 2 for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Vectorman for Genesis</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Vectorman 2 for Genesis</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>We Love Katamari for PlayStation 2</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Who Framed Roger Rabbit? for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Wii Play for Wii</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Wii Sports for Wii</td><td>D1</td><td>F1</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Wonder Boy in Monster Land for Sega Master System</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Wonder Boy III: The Dragon's Trap for Sega Master System</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Yoshi's Story for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Zack & Wiki: Quest for Barbaros' Treasure for Wii</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Zelda, The Legend of for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Zelda II: The Adventure of Link for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Zelda: A Link to the Past, The Legend of for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Zelda: Link's Awakening, The Legend of for Game Boy</td><td>N/A</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Zelda: Link's Awakening DX, The Legend of for Game Boy Color</td><td>N/A</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Zelda: Majora's Mask, The Legend of for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F3</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Zelda: Ocarina of Time, The Legend of for Nintendo 64</td><td>D4</td><td>F3</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Zelda: Oracle of Seasons, The Legend of for Game Boy Color</td><td>N/A</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Zelda: The Wind Waker, The Legend of for GameCube</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Zelda: Twilight Princess, The Legend of for GCN/Wii</td><td>D1</td><td>F2</td><td>3D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Zen: Intergalactic Ninja for NES</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
<tr><td>Zombies Ate My Neighbors for Super Nintendo</td><td>D4</td><td>F1</td><td>2D</td></tr>
</table>

Glossary of terms

2008-08-05T03:03:17Z

Enhasa: added 2D, 3D

These are some terms that you'll see in the Knowledge Base:

* '''2D, 3D''': For our purposes, a heuristic for the presence of blinking. It is much more likely for a 2D game than a 3D game to have F1 blinking effects. Low quality versions of such games are encoded at F3 instead of F2 so that the blinking is still apparent.
* '''AAC''', '''AVC''': Advanced Audio Codec and Advanced Video Codec. Used in MP4 movies on SDA.
* '''[[Anri-chan]]''': SDA's video encoding software.
* '''AVI''': A movie container format used by SDA. Currently used for compatibility purposes only. Contains DivX or XviD video and MP3 audio.
* '''AviSynth''': A scripting tool for editing video. Anri-chan uses it for movie production.
* '''Capture''': To record with a capture card.
* '''Codec''': A way to compress video or audio. If video was uncompressed, it would be far too massive too transmit over the Internet; thus, it is compressed with a codec. To be played back, it must be decoded with the same codec.
* '''D1, D4, etc''': Video dimensions. D1 (high resolution) in NTSC is 720x480 (DVD) or 640x480 (video file); PAL D1 is 720x576 (DVD) or 704x576 (video file). D4 (low resolution) in NTSC is 320x240; PAL is 352x288. D2 and D3 are only relevant to DVD output and are not discussed on this site.
* '''Deinterlace''': Movies on SDA use progressive scan, but most video captured from TV equipment is interlaced. Deinterlacing is the process to turn interlaced video into progressive video. If the whole video can be made by only discarding parts of the video (LQ/MQ), the process is quick. Otherwise (HQ/IQ) the video must be analysed to recreate the missing parts of the picture, which is very slow.
* '''DivX''': An older video codec. Used in AVI movies. Also see "XviD".
* '''Encode''': To compress with a codec.
* '''FAAC''': Free Advanced Audio Codec, the implementation of AAC used by SDA away from Windows.
* '''F1, F2, F3''': Video framerates. The number is the denominator of a fraction whose numerator is always 1. Thus, F1 is full framerate, F2 is half framerate, and F3 is third framerate. F1, F2 and F3 in NTSC are 59.94, 29.97 and 19.98 FPS, respectively, while in PAL they are 50, 25 and 50/3 (~16.666667) FPS, respectively.
* '''Field''': An interlaced frame contains half the picture for each of two consecutive frames of video. Each normal frame's share of the interlaced frame is called a field. If the frame has 480 rows of pixels, the first field will be rows 1,3,5,...,479 and the second field will be rows 2,4,6,...,480. To separate fields means to take each set of fields and put them in their own individual frames.
* '''Finalize''': A process done on DVD recorders that allows discs to be used on other equipment. Once you have finalized a disc, you cannot put anything else on it. The exception in DVD-RW, which you must format in order to write to once it has been finalized. Finalization must be done on the DVD recorder that recorded the disc.
* '''Frame''': Rather than using true motion, videos use frames, where slightly different images are shown rapidly to create the illusion of motion. Each image is called a frame.
* '''Framerate''': The rate at which frames are displayed. This is written as "x FPS," where x is the number of frames displayed each second.
* '''H.264''': An advanced video codec (AVC). Used in MP4 movies on SDA.
* '''HQ''': High quality. 2Mib/s video, 128Kb/s audio.
* '''IQ''': Insane quality. 5Mb/s video, up to 320Kb/s audio.
* '''Interlaced''': When a video signal comes one field at a time, it is said to be interlaced. Interlacing is used in TV video to halve the amount of bandwidth used in the video signal, while only slightly harming the viewing experience. Also see "Field".
* '''LQ''': Low quality. 128Kb/s video, 64Kb/s audio.
* '''MeGUI''': A tool used to encode video and audio.
* '''MQ''': Medium quality (same as normal quality). 512Kb/s video, 64Kb/s audio.
* '''MP3''': An audio codec. Used in AVI movies on SDA.
* '''MP4''': SDA's preferred movie container format. Contains x264 video and Nero Digital or FAAC audio.
* '''MP4Box''': A command-line application for working with MP4 files. Anri-chan uses it to mux together the video and audio, but it has a lot of uses (e.g. splitting movies into 10-minute chunks for YouTube). There is a Windows GUI for it called YAMB.
* '''mvbob''': An advanced deinterlacing filter used by Anri-chan for HQ and higher movies. "Bob" filters (including LeakKernelBob, which is a quicker filter for casual use) are required to do the video rebuilding work needed to maintain the resolution and/or the frame rate of interlaced video. Because of the complexity of the work, mvbob is by far the slowest part of the video processing.
* '''Nate''': The person who handles capturing and encoding runs for SDA, as well as many other very important tasks.
* '''ND''', '''NDA''': Nero Digital Audio, the implementation of AAC used by SDA on Windows.
* '''NMF''': New Master File. Refers to an intermediate source video file in the encoding process, usually one saved after deinterlacing (to avoid slow deinterlacing during each pass for each quality of output). To maintain the video quality of the source video, the compression (if any) is lossless, meaning the NMF has a very, very high bitrate.
* '''NQ''': Normal quality (same as medium quality).
* '''Progressive Scan''': When a video signal comes whole frames at once, it is said to be progressive scan.
* '''Transcode''': To convert from one file format to another. Similar to "Encode", except the source is usually already encoded.
* '''VirtualDub''': A Windows tool used to encode video and audio.
* '''VirtualDub Mod''': A modification to VirtualDub that is superior in some aspects but inferior in others.
* '''x264''': The implementation of H.264 used by SDA.
* '''XQ''': X-TREME quality. 10Mb/s video, up to 320Kb/s audio.
* '''Xvid''': DivX spelled backwards. Xvid is open source and generally produces better quality video than DivX while remaining 100% compatible. Used in AVI movies on SDA.